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2007年11月10日

二度と行かない店：茅場町　貝焼き屋台和光

※今年の2月に途中まで書いていたエントリーを復活してみました。

　まぁなにがひどかったかって、ここのコメント欄に集約されているんですけどもね。

●和光　丹羽さま
ご本人なのかどうかは知るすべもないのでここでお詫びされてもしょうがないのですが、築地の屋台時代とは打って変わった尊大ぶりには驚きました。
何を食ってもしょっぱい。
貝鍋に水を入れてくれと言っても無視して海水で煮詰める。
こちらは仕方がないので焼酎用の氷を溶かして味を薄めておりました。
せっかくの鯛の刺身にはフォアグラを焼ききった脂を垂らして台無しにしてしまうし。（それも焼きすぎで酸化して不味いことったら）

…まぁこんなことはまだ「味」の範疇ですからまだ許せます。
飲食業に必須の衛生観念すら失せているという堕落ぶりにはあきれて物も言えませんでした。
手も洗っていない中学生の息子に（それも学校かばんを斜めに肩から掛けたまま）鯛を捌かせ、それを客に提供させるという行為自体が信じられません。
もしかしたらきょうびは中学生でも調理師免許持てるんでしょうか？
よく分かりませんが。

二度と行くこともないでしょうし、そのうち潰れると思いますので未来永劫無視しようと思います。

　ということで、以下復活エントリー。

　元々築地で屋台でやっていた頃の「貝焼き和光」は数回行ったこともあるし、茅場町に移ってからも一度だけ覗いたことがあるのですが、今回はもうなんというか大外しで……

　場所の説明ですが、「店」というカテゴリーに入れることすらが似つかわしくないのかも知れないのです。なんというか崩れかけたような店内に三つほどの屋台が点在しているのが構えといえましょうか。
　別に元々が屋台だったわけですから、そのことについては全く問題視してはおりませんし、入口あたりに陣取って、ただただコースの貝焼きを食べる分にはとても美味しい店だということは間違いありません。
　壁中落書きだらけで、お客さんの名刺が貼られているというのもラーメン二郎だってそうなんだから別に気にはしません。
　ですがね、奥で変な具合にとっつかまっちまったんですよこれが。

　おや、と思うと店主が無駄に型のいい鯛をつかみ、ぐでぐでと料理をしようとしているのです。
　しかしいかんせんセンスがない。
　その前に、鯛が泳いでいるのは水槽じゃなくて風呂なのです。ええ、ステンレス製の一般家庭用の風呂おけ。つまるところ、以前誰か住んでいた住居が廃屋になった場所に屋台を持ち込んで営業しているってことですな。
　衛生的にもはなはだ疑問です。
　それに段取り悪いから10分も20分もまな板の上にさくにした鯛をほうりっぱなしだったし。まぁ二月だったから大丈夫か。

　さてその身の厚い鯛を何に使うかとじっと見ていると、切り身にしてトリュフをひとかけ乗せたものを厨房の傍らで宿題のドリルをやっている小学生の娘と部活から帰ってきたばかりの中学生の息子に「ホレ食べろ」「ウチは料理人の家なんだから味覚だけはしっかりしなきゃ」とどんどん食べさせているのです。
　客であるわれわれには爪くらいの大きさにマッチ棒の頭くらいのトリュフを載せてちまちまと出してくれました。なんやねんこれ。

　まぁでもこれもまだ許しましょうか。
　鯛の皮を細く切って三つ編みにしたものを炭火で焼くというのもわからんでもないですが、別に自慢するほどのことはありません。
　しかしその次にでてきたものがひどかった。
　擂り鉢で鯛の肉をあたって日本酒だけで伸ばしたものを強烈な火力で10分以上で炒り煮したそぼろの上に、さらにフォアグラを火にかけて出てきた酸化し切った脂をかけて「うまいから食え」とは悪夢以外の何者でもありません。
　すっぱい、しょっぱい、苦味もする。
　というか悪趣味。

　中学生の息子に店を手伝わせるのはいいんですが、キチンと手を洗ってるのかどうかも微妙。鯛の切り身を杉盛りしているのをべた褒めしてましたが、そんなのは別に関心はしないさね。
　というより中学生だろ？
　部活のかばん斜めにたすきがけしたままじゃんか。
　調理師免許持ってるわけねーだろが？　どうなってるの？

　もうここら辺に来て飯のまずさも手伝ってだんだんいらいらしてくるのがわかってきます。

　重ねて言いましょう。
　貝を焼いてるだけならうまい。
　この日も隣の屋台で焼いていた別の焼き手さんが見かねて持ってきてくれた平貝・ホタテ・巻貝・フジツボ・亀の手なんかはすこぶるうまかった。
　つまりここはそういう店であり、それ以上のものではないのです。
　「次は鯛専門店をやろうと思ってるんだよね」
　噴飯ものです。

　数行前に「貝料理だけはうまい」とは明記したものの、今回店主が作った貝鍋もこれがまたひどかった。
　海水と日本酒だけで鍋にするというのですがいかんせんしょっぱすぎるのです。
　塩の析出実験もかくや、こんなん食ってたら死ぬぞと体が拒否反応を起こすくらいしょっぱい。

　だいたいアクアパッツァってのは踊り水とも書くくらいなわけで水だけで味を引き出すのが基本である。これに足す水分は日本酒だけ。煮詰まってすっぱいやらしょっぱいやら……。
　しまいにゃ目分量で味噌まで入れやがる。
　水を足してくださいという言葉も全く聞き入れられず、「塩っぱいとか不味いとか勝手に言ってろ～♪」などと妙な自信家気取り。
　頼みの綱は冷凍うどんのみ。（でもうどんにも塩入ってるんだよな）
　オヤジが見てない隙に酒用のロックアイスを大量に入れても役にも立たないくらいにしょっぱい。

　ということで、当日行った7人が全員一致。

　「二度といかねーぜこんな店」

　迷うことなく地雷カテゴリー行き決定。

貝屋和光本店（魚料理 / 茅場町）
★☆☆☆☆ 1.0

なかのひと.jp

投稿者 KQZ : 2007年11月10日 02:18 | [EDIT]

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トラックバック時刻: 2013年10月08日 00:28

コメントを拝読し赤面と恐縮を感じております。
私の未熟さで、ご気分を害された事、折角御越しいただいたのに申し訳ございませんです。その上でお支払い頂いていると思います事、さぞお怒りのことと存じます。お口座をお知らせ頂ければ皆様の分お返しさせていただきたいのですが、もし叶わなければ、いつか私に力が付いた時、是非お返しさせて頂きたいと思います。そのときに少しはましになったかと褒めて頂けるようにと肝に命じておきます。大変失礼したこと、お詫び申し上げます。ご指摘ありがとうございました。
w●●●niwa@●●●.so-net.ne.jp

投稿者和光　店主　丹羽徳多郎 : 2007年12月03日 02:25

●和光　店主　丹羽徳多郎さま

以前の日記へのコメントにも同様な反応をさせていただきましたが、
まずもって貴方が本人なのかどうかがわかりません。
ですので、最後尾に書かれてあるメールアドレスを伏字に変更させて
いただきますのでご了承ください。

また「コメントを拝読し赤面と恐縮を感じております」とありますが、
同じ事を当日目の前で7人からの人間が店主に対して述べています。
その結果が「塩っぱいとか不味いとか勝手に言ってろ～♪」という
店主のセリフであった、というのは上記本文に書き記したとおりです。
（刃物を持っている相手ですから仕方なく諦めていましたが）

また、正体がよくわからない相手、もしくは本人であったとしても
面と向かって話をしてもわけのわからないことを言う相手に対して
銀行口座番号を教えるという愚は犯しません。

どうやら定期的に食べログをチェックして不都合のある書き込みや
トラックバックを削除されているようですが、そのような小細工じみた
事をされる前にするべきことがあると思いますが、
まぁ言っても無駄でしょうね。
築地時代を知っているだけに残念ですが、正直どーでもいいです。（笑）

投稿者 KQZ : 2007年12月04日 17:57

「社長」と呼ばれている中学生の息子が
学校帰りの恰好のままお客さんの前で
鯛をいじってる写真がありましたよね？
それを保健所に送って苦情を入れるのが
いいんじゃないでしょうか。

投稿者鯛焼き屋浜幸 : 2007年12月05日 02:17

●鯛焼き屋浜幸さま

あー、モザイク入れてアップするのもいいかもしれませんね。
FLマスクかなにかで。(笑)

ただ和光の掲示板によればビルの立て替えの関係で年内で一旦閉店するらしいんですよね。
もうそうっとしておいてもいいかと思います。

それに掲示板のほうに（娘さんがいじめられたという事に対して）

> ヤッタ奴をほっておくほど甘くありません
> 娘の裏には私がいる事ちゃんと伝えてやる

とか不穏なことを書いているみたいですから、そういった輩と係わり合いにもなりたくないですし。
ああこわいこわい。（棒読み）

投稿者 KQZ : 2007年12月06日 11:53

まずい　きたない　くさい　さいあく　和光

投稿者よこ : 2008年05月10日 00:30

●よこさん

　あらまここにも被害者が。
　mixiにファンのコミュニティもあるみたいですので、そちらで書かれた方がいいかもしれませんね。

[mixi] 和光
http://mixi.jp/view_community.pl?id=60576

　今URLを調べるため覗いてみたら、しばらくの間自宅で営業していたみたいですね。（今も？）
　ということは時期的に自宅営業の時に行かれたということでしょうか？　そりゃ逃げ場がなくて大変そうだ。ｗ
　なんにせよご愁傷様です。

投稿者 KQZ : 2008年05月15日 11:41

私も２回連れてってもらいましたが最悪でした。
汚いし臭いし貝を焼いてる時に貝の破片が飛んできたり
衛生面も最低でグラスは埃だらけ　氷は流しに入ってて
各自で割らなくてはならない。
客は酔ってるし汚い手で割りまくり。
しかたなくビールだけ飲み、トイレに行くと鍵はなく、覗こうと思えば見える小窓がついている。恥ずかしいのと怖いので用を足すことが出来ませんでした。
不満そうな顔をして食べてると文句があるなら払わなくていいから出てけと言われてる若いサラリーマンもいました

投稿者築地のスシ : 2008年05月23日 19:20

●築地のスシさま

なんというか、
「ピクニックで隣の親父がなんかやってる」
「築地に住んでるので持って来る魚介類はちょっとだけ美味しい」
「自己陶酔してるからなんだかえらそう」
っていう程度なんですよね。
それに輪をかけて
「美味しいものもサービスも知らない客が妙に盛り立てて勘違いさせている」
というのも見ていて痛々しい。
衛生的で無いだけでもどうにかならないものかと思うのですが。（厚生省的に）

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