2006年10月04日

謎の蔵書シリーズ: すし通

「すし通」といっても電通テックの若造が渋谷で屋台を出したとかたたんだとかそういうわけではない。

四六書房発行、三省堂発売。
昭和5年刊。七十銭。
永瀬牙之輔著作。

ウチと実家の自分の部屋にはなんだかよくわからない本がたくさん渦巻いている。
神社の方の爺さんの離れにも神社庁だか宮内庁だかの派遣で満州に国学を教えに行ってた頃に仕入れてきた希少な漢籍の類がたんまりあるらしいのだが、そういったところは似てしまったのだろうか。

さてこの本はもう十年とか前にどこかで入手した戦前のグルメ本だ。
まず様子がよい。美本である。
モノクログラビアも楽しい。
発行当時ですら「約五十年前の」と但し書きがしてある（つまり明治中ごろだ）寿司屋番付が面白い。
行事が「けぬき寿司」「与兵衛鮓」だったり宗御免ならぬ為御覧だったりするのも時代の妙である。
はじめに食べるのは玉子焼きだ巻物だ酢の物だという談義はこの頃からかびすましかったようだが、著者は一通りの説を開陳した後に

「鮨を玉子焼きから食うのは丁度会席料理でキントンから食い始めるようなもので、次に食うものの味は台無しである」
「そうすると玉子焼き党は『味わうより寿司屋の腕を見る為だ』という」
「ところが現今の屋台ではどこの店も玉子焼きなんてつけたりだからそんなもので寿司屋の腕がわかろうはずがない」
「いまさらそこの主人の腕を見ようなどというのはあまり鮨を食った事のない田舎出の客である」
「第一物を試そうなんて客は、半可通か駆出し者で、ほんとうの通人は試すという事より如何にして旨く食うべきかということを心掛けているものである」

とまぁ手厳しくも読んでいて気持ちいい。
というか、こういった話って今もずーーっとやっているわけで、今のグルメライターといわれる人たちはなんだかうろうろとここら辺をめぐっているだけでちっとも進歩していないような気さえしてしまうのだ。

あ、ちなみに「鮨はコハダに止め刺すというが、これは最後という意味でコハダは鮨中で一番生臭いから、初めに食うと他のものを不味くしてしまうからコハダを一番最後に食えと言っているのである」とも書いていますが、これは70年も時代が下った今では冷蔵技術やらなにやらの進歩でそういうわけでもないのだと逆バイアスを掛けて読まねばならないだろう。

そういう意味では古いものに対してなんでも鵜呑みにしてしまう人にとっては難しい本かもしれない。

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備忘録〜いまだ移行中〜

2006年10月04日

謎の蔵書シリーズ: すし通

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KQZ on authentic

備忘録 〜いまだ移行中〜

2006年10月04日

謎の蔵書シリーズ: すし通

トラックバック

コメント

備忘録〜いまだ移行中〜