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2006年09月11日

寿司と白ワインとをあわせてみる、の会

日曜日のこと。
都内某寿司店さんにて、店で出すワインを選定する会にお呼ばれしてみたのでした。

（店の名前は伏せておくとして）オーナー店主とは前々からいろんなところに食事に行ったりしている旧知の仲。
どもどもども、と挨拶をして席に座りよしなし話を。
「で、今日は誰がほかにいらっしゃるんですか？」と聞くと、ODINの菊地さんと僕のほかに西麻布の酒屋さん・長野屋の林ご夫妻もいらっしゃるとのこと。
なんだい先週赤坂のかさねでワイン会してたばっかりやんか。
なにかとご縁のあるわけでして。
そのほかレストランJの植木さんも来るかもとか言ってましたが結局こられず。
僕以外の周囲の方はまごうことなき飲食のプロなわけですが、きっとゲーム業界的あるいは広告業界的な見地から寿司と白ワインの相性を考えてみろというのが僕に対する要求なのでしょう。きっと。

程なくして林さんご夫妻が到着してお互いにびっくりしたり、菊地さんがODIN銀座店のカーヴからワイングラスを36個も持ってきてあたふたセッティングしたりとありながら、総計5人＋店主さんでワインテイスティングがスタート。
今回は完全ブラインドである。
グラスに注ぐときにばれないようにわざわざ店の外にでる。

そもそも今回の企画趣旨は「白ワインで寿司にあうおいしいのを置いてくれ」というお客さんからのリクエストに応えるためのもので、「そのお客さんはシャブリがあうとか言うんだけど、どんなもんなんだろうか」という店主の悩みにみんなして考えようという会なのでした。
ですから「ワインにあわせるためにネタの味つくりをする」という、よくあるワイン会の会場になっちまった寿司屋さんが考える方向性ではなく、「いつもの味のまま出してもすんなりとマッチする白ワインを探したい」ということなのでした。
そりゃむつかしいわ。

定番のおつまみを一式目の前にしてあーでもないこーでもないとテイスティング。
白いかを塩でやる。まぁなんとかなる。フルーティーすぎるのはここで脱落。山葵を使うか使わないかでもかなり変わるなぁ。
ゆでえびを塩で。身の方ならかなり何にでもあうけどミソが絡んでくるとどれともあわせられない。苦味がでるというか。
まぐろ。この季節を考えるとかなり最高に近いマグロである。これもなかなかワインとあわせるとなるとツライ。どうしても同時に食べちゃうとねぇ。
ひらめ。あわせやすそうでじつはかなりつらい。
煮ダコ。これは結構あわせやすい。
玉子焼き。焼きたてで暖かいのと冷やしてあるのとではあう酒が変わる。
からすみの味噌漬け。壊滅的にあわない。
しめ鯖。絶望的。
いくら丼。うーむ。

で、種明かしは以下のとおり。

　　

この中だと5番、3番、1番あたりか。
個人的には1番で味を押し切るような飲み方（口中調味せずに）なら何とでもなりそうでしたが、お客さんにそれを強制するのは絶対に無理なので致し方ないところか。酒なんて好きな飲み方してこそ、だしね。
キンと冷やして飲んでもらう（たとえばグラス売りとか）限定なら7番も面白いか。
しかしどれもそれなりにお高いワインなので正直悩んでしまうところである。

感想を言い合いながらあーだこーだと話が弾む。
日本のワイン、たとえばタケダワイナリーとか小布施とかメルシャンの高いのとかをあわせてみる、ニュージーランドに振ってみるというのも次回やりましょうとか。
あとはドイツワインか。久しぶりに入船屋の若旦那と連絡してみてもいいんですが、長野屋さんがいるだけに他の酒屋さん経由の酒は勧めづらいのがちょっともったいない。
他にはシャンパンかなぁ。
ロゼにも意外にいけるのがあると思うし。

長野屋さんと二人して「それをやるくらいなら日本酒を温度調整をきっちりとして出したほうがいいですよ」と盛り上がってしまいましたが、それは元からの設定がくずれるので別の機会にすることに。

しかしネタと酒に関するこだわりに関しては、さすがにご亭主、熱いものが見え隠れしている。
確かに「ワインに合わせる寿司をつくる」ということは可能なんだろうけど、それだとバランスを欠いてしまうだろうしなぁ。
以前「寿司匠たか」が節さんのビルの地下にあったころにオーブリオンの垂直をやったことがありましたが、その時には完璧に「ワインに合わせてもらう寿司つくり」とお願いしていたのを覚えています。
田崎真也さんが「赤身には赤ワインがあう」と変に喧伝してしまったのも寿司屋さん業界的にはつらいのかも。
米酢にはワインはどうにも合わせづらいですって。

てなてな反省も次回への展望もありつつ、帰りに太巻きのお寿司をお土産にもらって解散。
よく考えたらこれだけのおつまみとワインをいただいて、さらにお土産までもらってロハというのも非常に申し訳ないのではありますが。

　

投稿者 KQZ : 2006年09月11日 21:15 | [EDIT]

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ひぇー。
ちょっと楽しそうなイベントでしたねぇ。
私の一押しはアルガブランカです。
あと、手に入らないけど、ボー ペイサージュのシャルドネも旨い。日本のワインといっても、最近はかなり変なのが増えて楽しくなりました。

投稿者 /m : 2006年09月12日 02:19

このカウンターと包丁隠し（てのかなこの台）の感じは！
自分の本名と似た名前のお店ですね。

定番（「寿司幸本店」とか）ですが穴子（非タレ白焼き）は
唯一白ワインでも食べたいと思ってしまいます。
他は邪道系の六本木「山海」のニンニクの鮪ヅケは
酔ってたせいか、なぜか赤ワインでも美味しく食べれて
しまいました。ツマミですが。

このお店をずっと下って、ウチの近所のＴというお店が
”シャンパン鮨”なんていう触れ込みで、ソムリエ付きの
店でしたがう～ん…という感じで、すぐ日本酒に切り替えて
しまいました。

投稿者 麻布ヒロオ : 2006年09月12日 03:32

●/mさま
アルガブランカにボーペイサージュですね。
次回に向けて勉強してみます。

●麻布さん
そういえばこのお店でも麻布さんの話をしていたりして。
「確か2回目にいらした時は仕事関係の方だったかな？」とかとか。

確かに焼き物系はワインに合わせやすいんですけどねー。
ヅケでも熟成させてみっちりというタイプのものなら赤ワインで十分に合うと思います。
最上級のマグロ赤身はそれだけで血の味しますんで。

店からみたら、一旦ボトルを開けて提供してしまったらどういう組み合わせで合わされてもお客様次第で仕方がないわけで、そんな中で如何にネタの味を引き出してくれるかという観点で置くアイテムを選ぶわけですね。
これがまたむつかしい。
同時に面白いんですけども。
こんなところでつくづく食中酒としての日本酒の完成度の高さを思い知ったりして。

投稿者 KQZ : 2006年09月12日 13:53

常々気になっていながら書き込みしていなかったのですが、ODINのきくちさんの「ち」ですが、「池」ではなく「地」でございます。

投稿者 通りすがりのものです : 2006年09月14日 11:47

●通りすがりのものです　さん
おぉ、そうでした。
IMEまかせでそのまま変換していて間違えていたこと多々。
暇を見て変更しておきますね。
御指摘ありがとうございました。

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