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2006年08月19日

赤坂シュマンでランチ

先週土曜日のこと。

今日は（というか19日は）誕生日だったので、
ランチにご近所フレンチ「シュマン」に行ってきました。
ちょうどシュマンも4周年記念ということで特別メニューがあるとのこと。
楽しみなり。

家からてくてく歩いて12時ちょうどくらいにたどり着く。
しかし暑い。
暑すぎる。

顔見知りのスタッフに見晴らしのよいテーブルまで誘導してもらう。
するとイケメンソムリエとして有名な柴田さんもいらして御挨拶。
まずはパスティスの水割りをいただく。あ、今日はアブサンだったか。

一応「5対1の水割りで（笑）」と数年前のオウム返しで頼んでみるが、
アブサンなのでロックグラス＋水差しで出てきた。
ロックグラスの中の緑色のアブサンごしに借景の樹木が美しく映える。
水割りにして白濁した甘みをたるたると味わっていると一皿目が到着した。

アミューズグールは左からパイに乗せたイカのトリッパ、十勝産の仔牛の腎臓（ロニョン）のマリネ、胡桃とブルーチーズの入ったシュー。
なんてんですか、イカは日本酒にもあいそうな感じ。ロニョンは肉肉しておいしいなぁ。ホルモン。

続いて出てきたのが大振りの雲丹。
同時に白ワインをグラスでいただく。BANDOLの2000年。
特徴的な樽の香りと舌の上にうっすら残る皮の味が魚介類に良くあっていた。

北海道産の生うに殻の中にはトリュフと生海苔で味付けされた蟹のメランジェがたっぷりと詰まっているですよ。
生海苔とトリュフがここまであうとはびっくり。そして蟹の甘さよ。
海苔の味がそこはかとなく主張しつつも雲丹と蟹肉の甘さをひきだし、添えられているカリフラワーのクリームムースが緊張感をほぐしていい調和をもたらしてくれている。
小玉さん料理うまくなった？　とか失礼な話をしながらぱくぱく食べ進める。
これはまた食べたくなるなぁ。

続いての皿は、花ズッキーニの中にオマール海老のムースを詰めたもの。

上にあしらわれているのは枝豆と天然の鮎だ。
ホタテのジュがいいお味で、皿にほんの少し残った汁気をパンでぬぐうようにしていただく。

お次はカスベ。バルサミコと焦がしバターのソース。
あわせて軽めのブルゴーニュの赤をいただく。

こりこりと歯にあたりくだけてとけていく軟骨の食感がたまらない。
これは二年ほど前にいただいたことがあるが、前回と較べると火の加減がベストになっていた。（前はちょっと硬かったのだ）

口代わりのキウイシャーベットをはさみ、メインに来るはブレス産仔鳩のロースト。

内臓を使いエキスのしっかりつまったソースでいただく。
柔らかく濃くジューシーで美味。
下に敷いたキャベツが甘くておいしい。
ちなみに右に見えるナイフはラギヨール。

肉を食べながら知り合いの話やら逗子の獣肉の話やら。
気づくとこの時点で店はもう満席である。
あんまり柴田さんを独り占めしてしまうのも悪いので短いタームをつなぎつつ。
赤ワインをもう一杯おかわり。

で、お約束のチーズ。

「知り合いに子供が生まれたんですけど、どんなプレゼントがいいですかねぇ」
などといった質問を受けたり世間話をしつつとろとろのエポワーズと36ヶ月熟成のミモレットをいただく。
あぁ、話をしていたらカマンベールの真ん中にトリュフを山ほど挟み込んだものを食べたくなってきた。

デゼールは二種。

左の写真はサングリアで煮た桃のコンポート。上に乗っているのはミント。
ここのところ桃づいている我々であったがはじめての味である。美味。
そして下が驚きの一皿。
あまーいフルーツトマトのグラニテにカスタードクリームをかけて一回グラタンに仕立てて、その上にプロヴァンス産黒オリーブのジェラートを添えてあるのだ。
黒オリーブのジェラートとフルーツトマトが出会うといくばくかの塩味が口の中に浮かんできてクリームとともに消えていく。正体はグルタミン酸ですな。
これがまた冷えすぎているといかんのだろうなぁ。酸味ばっかり立っちゃって。
温度管理も最高の一皿でございました。

で、締めのエスプレッソ。

ミント味のマシュマロ、チョコレート、ココナッツのお菓子。

柴田さんがにこにこしながら「食後酒にどうぞ」とマディラを注いでくれる。
自分でも一杯立ち飲みしながらあれやこれや。
ふぅ満腹＆満足。

お値段は、通常のランチのお任せコースだと5300円なり。
今回は夜のコースをお願いしてしまったがそれにしてもお値打ち。

お会計を済ませると、ドアの外で小玉さんが待っていてくれてそこでもしばし立ち話。
また機会を見つけてこなければ。

帰る道すがらやまやに寄ってパスタとビールを買っててこてこと帰宅。

Chemins　シュマン
http://www.chemins.jp/
住所: 港区赤坂2-17-7赤坂溜池タワーANNEX１階
TEL: 03-3568-3344
営業: 11時30分～13時30分(L.O.)　18時00分～21時30分(L.O.)
定休: 月曜日

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KQZ on authentic

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