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2006年06月29日
書き忘れの記 ～スペイン料理の巻～
某日
有楽町というか日比谷というか、まぁ日比谷公園の向かい側になるから日比谷なのだろう。
ともかく微妙な場所にある『レ・ストゥディ』というお店に行き不思議なお料理を食べてきた。
「不思議な」というのは語弊があるかもしれないが、この場所はスペイン料理の伝道師ホセ・バラオナ・ビニェスの個人的厨房であり、1日に1組（それも最大で10名程度）だけ客とした完全予約制＆好みに応じた料理を振る舞ってくれるというなんとも特殊な業態のレストランなのである。
お予算は20万円からとなっており、10名の客のスケジュールを集めるのは値段以上にナカナカ困難なわけでして、ある意味”日本一予約が難しい”と呼ばれる店なのだ。
あ、ちなみにホセ・バラオナ・ビニェスさんというのはピカピカ ピンチョス
小笠原伯爵邸の中の人だった、というかなんというか。
発起人は腹黒い事で有名なストロウドッグ小泉くん。
彼がさまざまな寿司屋のカウンターでナンパした（実話）食道楽の方々を中心に見事10名の善男善女（小泉くんを除く）が集まった。
あ、Abbot's Choiceの泉店長もいました。
まず前菜盛り合わせは手前からハモン・イベリコ・デ・ペジョタのパン・コン・トマテ、同じくハモン・イベリコ・デ・ペジョタのクリームコロッケ、パプリカとオリーブオイルのタコ 、ガスパッチョの4品。
どれも普通にウマイ。ガスパッチョがおとなしくも鮮やか。後で聞いてみるとパンを入れたりしてないみたい。
この中でよかったのはパン・コン・トマテかな。トマトをすりおろしたところに軽く焼いたパンをずぶりと漬けてさっとハモン・イベリコでくるむんだとか。
続いては焼いた新玉葱の天ぷらカタルニアのロメスコソース。
これまたウマイ。焼いた玉葱がメイン並の存在感なのだ。
なんでもオーブンで一時間ほど焼いた後アルミフォイルで蒸したものをさくっと揚げたのだとか。
ロメスコソースはパプリカ、ナッツ、トマトチームとニンニクチームを分けてあって濃淡がついて面白い。
なかなかやるでやがる。
カプチーノっぽいニンニクあわあわソースがもう少しインパクトがあってもいいかなぁ。（ここら辺については最後のほうにまとめて書くとして）
三皿目は煮込んだレンティス豆に卵のフリットとチョリソートーストを乗せたもの。
野菜ブイヨンで煮込んだやさしい味のレンティスの上にオリーブオイルで揚げた半熟卵が乗ってるわけです。その上に帽子のようにかぶさっているのがかりりと焼いたトーストにチョリソを荒いペースト状にしたソースをつけて乾燥焼きさせたもの。
焼けたチョリソとパンと白身のじくじくした香ばしいにおいがたまりませんわさ。
卵を割ると黄味がトロ～ンで豆と混ぜて食べるわけです。不味いわけがない。
「海老で作っても美味しいよ。でも卵の方が好きだけど」とはホセさんのお言葉。ごもっとも。
ちなみにさほど有名な高級卵を使っているわけではないのだとか。
「スーパーで売ってる高い卵ね」で十分だそうです。へー。
続いてはホウボウと浅蜊のフィデウア。
見た目ベビースターっぽいものがフェデウアでして触感もわかりやすくベビースターっぽいです。しこしこ固めの揚げ麺ってことで。
なんでもカタル二アの料理らしく、カッペリーニを適当にバリバリ折ったものをオリーブオイルで揚げたものをさらに浅蜊を煮込んだスープで煮絡めたというもの。ホウボウの影が薄くなるというか、まさしくこの料理の主役はベビースターもといフェデウアなのです。家でもやってみようっと。
5皿目は墨烏賊のアロス・カルドソのアイオリソース。
アロスは米って意味なのはわかるけどカルドソってなんじゃろ… と思っていたらやわらかめのリゾットっぽかったです。鍋の種類だったっけかな？
烏賊がやわらかくうまうま。アイオリそーすもぐー。
6皿目はイベリコ豚トロのモルーノ。
イベリコ豚ののど肉のトロ部分を12時間野菜で煮込んだものをオリーブオイルとパプリカなどの香辛料でマリネしつつ1日半冷やして味を落ち着かせたものを、サーブする直前にスライスしてさっと中まで熱くなる程度に炙って出来上がり。
ナイフを入れるとほどけるような肉の繊維が美しい。口に入れると想像通りとろける。美味。
付け合せのカリフラワーとジャガイモのピューレが美味しい。豚を煮込んだスープも使ってるみたい。
最後にスペインのチーズ４種。ガロチャ・マホレロ・ピトゥ・テティージャ。（なにがなにやら）
デザートは‘サン・セショップ’のカタルニアのカスタードクリームというのだそうな。
そして手作りチョコレートにコーヒー。
出てきた飲み物は
- Dry Fino La Ina Domecq
- Cava Agusti Torello Reserva2002
- Senorio de Sobral2004/アルバリーニョ
- Prios Crianza2002/テンプラニーリョ
- San Emilio Lustau/ペドロヒメネス
で、総括。
やはり食べ物は一緒に食べる人のテンションにも大いに影響されるわけでして、今回の企画はそれだけでも十二分に満足できるものだったのでした。
ただ一点。
なんというか料理に勢いがないのがちょっと気にかかるわけでして。
どの料理も美味しいんですが、キレイにまとまりすぎていてパッションが感じられないのですよ。
毎日食べても飽きないくらいなんだけど、「うー、たまらん。うますぎる。腹が裂けるまで食ってやる！」的な情動を動かされるものでは全くないのです。
なんでだろうかなぁと食べながら考えていたのですが、10日以上経って思い起こしてみると、このメニューの中で今も記憶に残っている料理は全て「熱い」「熱かった」ものなんですよねー。（僕の味覚がおこちゃまだというのはさっぴいて下さいましな）
もとい。
もともとがピンチョスという食べ方からして作り置きのものが多いのはわかるんですが、こうした少人数の構えならば適温でサーブできるはずなのです。
そういう意味では何度もここで書いているカマロンの方がずっと熱くてウマイんですよね。
一方少人数でストイックでそれでいてウマイといえば中目黒の小林さんがやってるフォリオリーナ・デッラ・ポルタ・ フォルトゥーナでしょうか。あの人は人間として熱いからあれくらいの狭さの方がいいのかも。
（銀座で一瞬ゴージャス店をやってたときが一番好きでしたが…）
とまぁ舌では満足しながらも気持ちでは「もっと旨くなる演出が出来るはず」と思ってしまったのでした。
お店形式でやるときには音楽とか内装とかスタッフ教育とか頑張ればいいんでしょうけども。
最後に厨房から出てきたホセさんとお話して一次会は解散。
お土産にチュッパチャプスをいただきました。
Tips:チュッパチャプスのロゴデザインをしたのはサルバドール・ダリ
→チュッパチャプス - Wikipedia
チュッパチャプスを1969年にチュッパチャプスの考案者であるエンリケ・ベルナートは、チュッパチャプスを世界展開させる際にロゴをスペインの芸術家であるサルバドール・ダリに依頼した。依頼をされたダリはその場でナプキンにデザイン画を描いた。そのデザイン画をエンリケは大変気に入り、現在のロゴの原型とした。
その後、六本木Abbot's Choiceに行きビール飲んだりストロングボウのCIDER飲み尽くしたりしてたのでした。
L’estudi レ・ストゥディ
千代田区内幸町2-2-2 富国生命ビル B2F
Tel: 03-3597-0312
Abbot's Choice アボットチョイス
港区六本木5-1-5 加藤ビル2階
Tel: 03－3475－0353
無休
投稿者 KQZ : 2006年06月29日 20:15 | [EDIT]
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