2005年10月30日

中国産のホワイトバンドを右手にしたヤツがうまいというお話

なにやら香ばしいタイトルではありますが内容は食べ物系のお話ですので全然ご期待に添えないかもしれません。
いや添えない。きっと。

さて、今日は小鳳さんからお誘いいただいた上海蟹宴会に行ってきたのでした。

場所は横浜中華街は大珍楼新館。
陸社長とイケメンの息子さんを含めて14名の善男善女がただただ上海蟹のためだけに集ったのでした。
いやしかし想像以上でしたわ。
小鳳さんとは飯を食らう時だけしか会ったことがないのでいつもは何をしている人なのかはよくわかりません。
特別室に入るとやはり飯食い友達の島さんがいらしてご挨拶。
良くわからないながらも香港にみんなで飯だけ食いに行ったりしてるんだよなぁ我らってば。
他にも銀座のバー武蔵の武蔵さんとか有名な方もいらっしゃってましたが蟹の前には全ての人は平等なのでそこんとこヨロシク。（ん？）

さてテーブルに着くと菜譚（メニュー）をチェック。
ずらずらっと書き記しますってぇと…

蟹柳沙律柿皿
話梅酔大閘蟹
龍眼燉大閘蟹
大閘蟹粉豆花
蟹粉松茸帯子
陽澄湖大閘蟹
黄糖湯丸姜茶
炸蟹粉小籠包
栗子菇鶏堡飯
四式美甜点心
密梨鮮美布甸

もっとも、漢字表記的に正しくは「蟹」ではなくて「虫偏に介」、「皿」ではなくて「上に中で下に皿」、「堡」ではなくて「上に保で下に火」だったりするのですがそこら辺は大目に見てくださいまし。

で、まずしょっぱなからしてメニューにない焼き豚。

サクサクの皮がんまい。
甘酢漬けの大根がこの後の饗宴の序章となるわけです。ちょいと辛目のXO醤がアクセント。

続いては季節の柿をお皿に仕立てた海鮮サラダ。
バラエティに富んだ歯ごたえがお上品。

そして酔っ払い蟹が。

一週間ほど漬け込んで熟成したぬんめりとした歯ごたえと、鼻腔に抜ける蟹くささがほんのりと生姜と甘い梅とに彩られておりたまりません。

続いてはスープです。

蟹ミソがたっぷりと入っていてまるでサフランで色づけされたよう。
じんわりとうまい。
陸社長曰く、壷に入れてじっくりと蒸しているからこういった滋味深いスープになるのだとか。「味噌汁みたいに直火でごーっとやると出汁は取れるけど、こういう風な味にはならないんですよ」だそうな。
こりゃ家庭ではまねできないや。

中国料理の奥深いところついでに、色々とお話を伺いながら食事は進む。
蟹は陰陽五行説でいうと「悪寒」と言われ体を冷やす働きがあるとされているので、折々に生姜を使ってみたりスープをはさんだりしている、とかとか。
もちろんそれを知っている僕らはあわせるお酒にしても老酒を生（き）でやるわけですな。体を冷やさないように。
またこのスープにはわざわざ一度干した龍眼（ろんがん＝ライチみたいな果物）を使っています。
これも体を温める効果があるとされているからなのですよね。
ふむふむ。

そしてお次が…
食べてびっくりの「大閘蟹粉豆花」なのです。

豆花、つまり柔らかいお豆腐（厳密には作り方がちょっと違う。にがりと石灰の違いとか）の上に上海蟹のほぐし身をかけて蒸しあげたというお料理なのですが、これがすんごーーーーーく旨かったのでした。
なんというか、濃い豆乳の持つ豆の力強いえぐさ（石灰由来なのかはしらねど酸味苦味も嫌味なくほんのりとかおってました）が上海蟹の身と味噌の甘さや豊潤さを引き立ててくれているというわけです。
これには全員が唸ったですハイ。
いやすげーや。

そしてお次の炒物はというと、帆立と松茸の蟹味噌炒めなのですよお客さん。

もうなんてんですか、秋の味覚独り占め？　ってゆーか（半疑問）

松茸にしっかり味が乗っているので聞いてみると、一度上湯（しゃんたん）でさっと湯掻いて味を入れてから炒めているのだとか。
さすがですのぉ。（こればっか）

そしてそしてそして。
本日のメーンエベント（在りし日の全日本女子プロのリングアナウンサーのように）、上海蟹の雄さまがいらはりましたっ。

どーん。

この重量たるや270g超！
先日早朝の築地場内を探し回ってもやっと200g程度が見つかったくらいだったのが、これがもう270gですよあーた。この身の厚さったら。

そして注目していただきたいのが二種類のタグ。
胴回りの他に右手にきららんとホワイトバンドが光っております。
これは産地の保障だけでなくトレーサビリティもかねているのだとか。
横浜中華街の大店・大珍楼さんが二ヶ月も前から予約してやっと揃えてられたという逸品でございます。

ほぉーら、身をあけた。

この味噌の詰まりっぷりったら。

そして身を半分にばしぃっと割って、かぶりつくでございますですよ。
口の中一杯が上海蟹の味噌！　思わずマクロモードを忘れてしまったくらいの感動物のうまさです。

んでもって足とかの肉の部分をこそげ出して甲羅で味噌と和えてあぐあぐあぐぅと食うという至福。
富麗華あたりだとお上品にも給仕のお姉さんが上海蟹の身をほぐして食べさせてくれたりしますが、これほどの逸物ならばかぶりつく方が美味しく味わえるに決まってます。
小鳳さんが香港で買い求めてくれた蟹箸(*)が大活躍です。

(*)蟹箸‐上海蟹や渡り蟹を食べるためだけに使用するお箸。ちょっと見は普通の角箸なのですが、両端の削り具合がそれぞれ絶妙で画期的に蟹が食べやすいのでした。

もちろんこれだけじゃございあせん。
雌だっています。男女食料機会均等法です。なに言ってるか良くわかりません。

じゃーん。

じゃじゃーん。

もちろんタグ付きーのホワイトバンド付きーの。

紅色に見えるのは卵です。しくしくとした歯ごたえが食感にも美味しいのです。

蟹を食らうこと約一時間。
うめぇ、うまい、美味しいわと喋りつつも時は過ぎていきます。
甲羅に老酒をたらしてつつぅっと啜ったりね。

…と、蟹の余韻に浸っていたわれわれに対して「ちょっと面白い料理を考えてみました。多分驚くよ」とにこにこと陸社長。
はて？　と思い聞いてみると、小籠包を揚げてみたというのです。
ほへ？

見た目は揚げ団子にしか見えません。

じっと見てもそう。
蟹を食べる時に使ったはさみで切ってみると、

あらまホントに小籠包。
皮に餅生地を使ってスープが漏れないように工夫をしているとのこと。
もちろん中身も上海蟹。揚げた餅に熱々のスープが絡まって絶品。これもまた美味しい。

でもってとびっきりの生姜湯で熱を補給する。

白玉の中に中国特産の黒砂糖みたいなものが入っているのは、やはり熱を補給するのだという。
白玉の中でじゅわりととろけてんまい。
「炭酸で割ったらウィルキンソンのジンジャーエールになりますよ」という陸社長ジュニアの冗談も本当のような生姜辛さでしたがめっぽう旨いのは陰陽五行説に則っているからなのでしょうか。
ふぅ、っと汗をかきつつ一息つきます。

そしてお食事最後の締めは土鍋ご飯。

栗と棗の鶏飯です。うまそーーー。

陸社長自ら最後の仕上げをしてくださってます。

醤油ベースのタレと意外なことにバターをたっぷりと入れて混ぜていましたが、コレがまた暴力的に旨いのです。

お代わりまで貰って満腹満腹。

デザートはなんと5種類も。

蜜に漬け込んだ梨を使ったプリンです。美布甸と書いて「プリン」ね。
そして点心の4点盛り。

外郎風の触感が楽しい黒胡麻のデザートに、バナナ味のタピオカ饅頭、金箔に彩られた蓮の餡のパイには塩玉子も入っていました。それと京芋の揚げ菓子。

大満足の上海蟹宴会は14時からスタートしたはずが終わったのは17時過ぎ。
そしてお値段は…
申し訳なくていえないくらいでございました。
富麗華とかシェフズでこれ頼んだらすんごい値段だろうなぁ…

くちくなった腹を抱えて辞する。
一階の売店でお土産を買って地下鉄に乗って帰宅。
夜になってもお腹が空かないのは当たり前のお話でございましたとさ。

投稿者 KQZ : 2005年10月30日 23:57 | [EDIT]

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» 藻屑蟹（モクズガニ） from 麻布TIME
ジャンル：和食時間：Dinner 　　　松山産の「藻屑蟹」　とにかく生きがいいです。蓋を開けたら脱走しはじめます！大将が手にしているメスでもこの大きさ。オスだと鋏の可動... [続きを読む]

トラックバック時刻: 2005年11月13日 17:25

見てるだけでおなかいっぱいになってきたよ。
一瞬マタギで会った小鳳さんだね。
今度は誘っておくれー。

投稿者ｓ : 2005年10月31日 19:57

うまやらしすぎます…

投稿者ケン : 2005年11月01日 00:22

反応が遅れてしまいましたが最高の上海蟹でございました。
5年位前に香港に行ったときにおんなじくらいの経験をしたことがありましたが、これなら日本でもいいや、ってくらいでした。

補記：
「蟹は悪寒」と表記しましたが、別に体に悪いというわけではなく「程度の表し方」だと思ってください。
例えば口内炎が出来たりした場合。
口内炎は陰陽五行説では「体に熱を持っている」ことが原因とされますので「蟹を食べるとてきめんに効果がある」ということになります。
要はバランスと使いようってことですね。

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備忘録〜いまだ移行中〜

2005年10月30日

中国産のホワイトバンドを右手にしたヤツがうまいというお話

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KQZ on authentic

備忘録 〜いまだ移行中〜

2005年10月30日

中国産のホワイトバンドを右手にしたヤツがうまいというお話

トラックバック

コメント

備忘録〜いまだ移行中〜