2004年11月23日

吉例！　冬の獣肉ツアー

どーん

（風邪っぴきのさなかの後出し日記。案の定書き漏らしがあり追記）

風邪気味でだるいながらも今日は吉例の獣肉を食らうツアー当日なのだ。
ツアコンさんとしては休むわけにはいかない。
が、きんときさんはどうも風邪気味だそうで行く前からリタイア。
獣肉は食べるのにも体力が要るので賢明かもしれないのぉ。

今回持ち込む酒はどうしようか悩んだのだが、麻布十番で買った総革のワインコンテナを使ってみたかったので赤ワインと日本酒にしてみる。日本酒は長谷川酒店の試飲会でいただいた「あどはだり」とかいう19度もあるものに。赤ワインはなんだっけか。シャトー・ヌフ・デ・パフだったか6000円くらいの普通のやつ。作りはどこだか覚えてまへん。悪くはなかったはず。
調味料は沖縄のヌチマース（波動結晶のやつ）と出雲醤油、柚子胡椒、もちろん黒七味ももって行く。もしかしたら小鳥もあるかもしれないからすっぱすぎない粒マスタードももって行く。それと有次のミニナイフ。
先日島唐辛子で自作したラー油はどうしようか迷ったが寝かしが足りないのでやめ。

早めに品川駅に行き、元ジョージアムーン店長の泉くんと店舗の打ち合わせを一時間ほどこなしていると各方面から電話が入り始める。
名取などは間に合わないと困るので出先からクルマで直行したのだという。
酒が飲めなくても肉だけは食いたい、いや食わせろ、という気合が十二分に感じられたエピソードだが、この決定があとで泣きを見る羽目になるわけだ。

今回の参加者は総勢19人と幼児一人。
品川駅で落ち合ってグリーン車に乗ってまずはビールで乾杯。
ODIN菊地さんの奥さんが手作りしてきた蕪のポン酢漬けがめちゃくちゃ好評。クミチンさすが。
電車の中で飲食経営のプロ達に六本木の店の図面を見せてあーだこーだいわれる。さしづめマネーの虎って感じですかわれらには。
六本木の某地主さんには「へー、KQZさんって店の経営とかに興味あったんだー」と意外そうに言われてしまう。つか流れですわな。どんな仕事でも断った事ないし、ライターにしろ放送作家にしろ広告にしろゲームにしろ日本酒にしろ、今まで趣味だった事が全部仕事になってしまっているんで実は純粋な趣味がなくなってしまうことに茫漠たる不安があるにはあるのだが、ま、それはそれでなんとかなるんでしょ。きっと。

アペリティフを消化しつつ電車は逗子へと到着。
今回参加の面々はというと、現地で落ち合った名取＠赤坂のバーは大丈夫か？　に加え、ODINの菊地夫妻に数寄屋橋次郎勝鬨橋さ々木…といった鮨屋さん軍団、渋谷の焼肉の名店「ゆうじ」のゆうじさん、四谷三丁目の地酒の名店「浅間」の畠山くん、「中華虎の穴」の小鳳さん、六本木の地主さんに某首相経験者の息子さんといった怪しい人も含めたお馴染みのメシ食い仲間に加えて、近頃MIXIで知り合った体液が日本酒な人たちとして中目のﾉﾝﾀﾞｸﾚさん御一家に日経レストランの菅原編集長夫妻といったいずれ劣らぬ食いしん坊がぞろりずらりと出揃ったわけだ。

前にも書いた事があるが、美味しいものを食べる秘訣は食べ物に対するテンションが高い人と食べることにあるのだ。旨いものをちゃんと旨そうに、とてつもなく旨いものはとてつもなく旨そうにわかって食べていると、いつの間にやら相手も普段より旨いものを出してくれるようになるのだ。
で、そのご褒美として出てきたのがまず冒頭で出てきた肉だ。
もう一回乗せちゃお。

アップでどーん

これは鹿の肉のロース。3歳のオス。
実は先週、おやじさんに電話したときに「今長野でさー、KQZさんにいい猪とってやったから期待してくんな」といわれてうひらうひらしていたのだが、その後に鹿のいいのもとれたのだとか。落として4日目の若い熟成が完璧に回っている状態。

炭火で油を落とす匂いをつまみに生ビールをいただく。
隣に座った小鳳さんとは香港で1杯15,000円の上海蟹ラーメンを食べたとき以来だったかも。いや、横浜で一卓料理をやったときだったか…。しかし話していくうちに小鳳さんは高城さんと中国で中華料理を食ってたりしてびっくり。これだから食いしん坊の世界は極めて狭いと言えるのだ。

焼いてます焼いてます。ちなみに奥に見えるのは某鑑評会出品酒。

油をじっくりと落として中をミディアムレアにして薄切りで食べる。
じんわぁ〜…
見事にうまい。
噛み締めるほどに芳しい。しかし食べ物にテンションが高い人たちが集まるといい目にあえるもんだわさ。
去年の2歳の鹿の背ロースが最高だと思っていたが、この時期の3歳で一番いい熟成だとやわらかさがまたいいでげすな。8年もののヌフ・デ・パフでも正直力不足なり。
浅間の畠山くんがもって来てくれた某鑑評会酒でいただくとまたオツな。

合間につまみに出てきた小松菜と油揚げときくらげの煮物がしみじみとうまい。
ここのきくらげとか茸類は反則だよなぁ。絶対笑い茸とかを微量混ぜてるに違いない。

次は山女の稚魚を軽く炙る。
やわらかい食感と鮮烈な川魚の香り、ほとばしる油感に初めての人は必ず驚くのだ。
中目さん持ち込みの上喜元のお燗純米を瓶ごと炭火にあてて乱暴にお燗していただく。
あー日本酒がうまい。白ワインもってきてないしもってきてたとしてもやっぱり日本酒だ。
一回だけチーズとフランスパンを持ち込んで（←何やってんだか…）、炭火で炙ってとろとろにしたチーズを同じく炙りたての山女の稚魚にまとわせて薄切りのフランスパンに乗せて食べた事があるが、このときにはさすがに軽めの赤がぴたりとあった。確か去年シュマン＠乃木坂チームと来たときだっけか。

続いて猪の焼肉！
薄切りをさっと炙ってはぐはぐといただく。
塩コショウで十分だがやはり黒七味があうなぁ。
そして猪のレバー!!
三年通っても食べられない人もいるというのに今日初参加の人はラッキーなこと。
「残しとかないとKQZさんに怒られっちまうからさ」とは大将のお言葉。やさし。
塩も胡椒もなしでさっと火に炙りいただくとサクリと歯先で割れてすぐあとからじんわりと野生の血の甘ぁい味が口中に広がってくるのだ。南米にはココアを生命の実と珍重した地域があったと聞くが、味わいからしてもこれこそが生命の源を食べているような気がする。つかコレ食べると体温が上がって寝られなくなるんですよ。変な意味ではなくてリアルに。

焼き物を十二分に堪能した後は猟師鍋。
猪をメインに野菜たっぷりの味噌味なのだ。ごぼうが太くてやわらかくてうまいうまい。
出汁が出まくってアドレナリンもでまくる。
はたから見たら相当うるさい団体だった事だろうて。テーブル中持ち込みの酒とか調味料でいっぱいだし。
最後にすいとんでしめる。スープが奪い合い状態になりほとんど空っぽになるのが常。
ここのすいとんは猟に行く先の農家で分けてもらっているものらしく、どうやってもあの香ばしさ、もっちもっち加減は真似できない。

約3時間の至福のときを過ごして会計は一人8,000円なり。やすーい。
東京でコレが出てきたら5倍出しても無理だわな。
浅草の寿は鴨は悪くないけど大根おろしとタレにぶちこまれっちまうし、大将が焼いてくれないときもあるしね。
今回はまだ鳥がでてなかったのでそれは次回に持ち越しですな。

投稿者 KQZ : 2004年11月23日 23:15 | [EDIT]

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当日はお誘いいただきありがとうございます。
なにもかもがおいしゅうございました。
思い出すとよだれが…。
特に肝を食べたせいでしょうか、本当にその日の晩は
体がほてってしまって寝苦しかったです（笑）。
激しく精がつく感じです。
また食べに行きたい…。
それと、プロの皆さんのバイタリティは凄いと思いました。「肉喰うぞ！」というオーラが感じられました。

全くの余談ですが、３枚目の画像、手前に腸詰がありますね。これ、私の隣の席に座ってたお兄さんが「中華街で適当に買ってきた」そうなのですが、焼いて食ったら直球、ネイティブな味でした。「うわ、知音食堂で喰えるような味だわこれ(^^;)」とつぶやいたら隣のお兄さん、(池袋の知音食堂)知ってるっていってました（笑）。

投稿者中目の呑んだくれ : 2004年11月27日 11:54

ああ，今年こそ参加したい気持ちでいっぱいだったのですが，会社待機だったのでムリでした．．．

またの機会にでもゼヒ～

投稿者トロチチ : 2004年11月27日 21:28

ああ，今年こそ参加させてもらいたい気持ちでいっぱいだったのですが，時期が時期だけに会社待機がずっと続いていたのでした．．．ああ無情。

次の機会には，ゼヒともチャレンジできればと思ってますー

投稿者トロチチ : 2004年11月27日 21:35

くっそー、こんなのやってたのか！
次は連れてけよ。っていうか何人まとめればいけるの？
最低催行人数は？
偶然翌日に逗子マリだったけど港の魚屋休みで美味いもん食えなかったよ。ブツブツ言ってたら女に逆切れされるし。その店知ってたらなー。
包丁持った女とは喧嘩しないほうがいいな。

投稿者 S : 2004年12月01日 20:30

今度誘いますね＞Sさん
最低催行人数というかベストは6～8人くらいでしょうか。
人数か少ないといろいろな種類が食べられないですし、多すぎると珍しいものが出してもらえなくなるし。
そろそろ鴨や雉のいいのが入る時期だと思いますから、おやじさんから電話がきたら連絡しますね。

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2004年11月23日

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KQZ on authentic

備忘録 〜いまだ移行中〜

2004年11月23日

吉例！ 冬の獣肉ツアー

トラックバック

コメント

備忘録〜いまだ移行中〜

吉例！　冬の獣肉ツアー