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2004年10月04日

祇園丸山にいき暴力料理芸者について考えてみたり

(((((写真は後日アップしますわ)))))

さくまあきら御夫妻とのお茶のあと、ホテルに戻って車を置きタクシーで祇園へと繰り出す。
今日の夜ゴハンは「祇園丸山」に予約しているのだ。
名取も急にジョインしたいというので前日の午後に連絡してみたら「はい、大き目のお部屋を用意してますので大丈夫ですよ」ですと。
お部屋？　はて。

名取と花見小路の入り口で落ち合って祇園丸山に向かう。先日うかがった阪川のすぐ近くだ。
白木で統一されたエントランスをめでつつ通された2階のお座敷は低めの黒塗りのテーブル席。あら、ほんとに広いわ。さくまさんご夫婦を誘っても良かったかも。襖をへだてた隣の部屋から三味線の音や芸鼓さんのおしゃべりが聞こえてくる。これがBGMだとしたら完成度の高いもてなしですなぁ。
折りしも重用の節句ということで菊の花を浮かべた塗りの盃でまずは一献。
器にも菊花がたくさん使われている。
八寸は銀杏、鴨ロース、占地と春菊の和え物、卵の黄身の粕漬けなど。
お椀は松茸と名残の鱧。初日の松茸地獄と打って変わって上品なお味だ。
お刺身にはツマの代わりに鯨の軟骨を極々細い千切りにしたものがあしらわれていた。コリコリとした触感が美味なり。焼き物は甘鯛。お凌ぎはつとに入った蒸しちらし寿司。煮物は加茂茄子に牛。締めは珍味三種盛りに茗荷の炊き込みご飯だった。

お料理もいいお味。お酒はお燗に専念。相変わらず京都の割烹はこんなもんでしょう。（諦めモード：なぜかは後日蔵元さんたちとも話し合ったので後述するかも←できないかも）

デザートはバナナシャーベットに白餡の水羊羹。

途中トイレに中座すると、座敷がかかった舞妓さんが控えていた。
食事だけではなく内装、サービス、それとこういった風情も含めての値段ならコストパフォーマンスはかなりいい。(それなりにお酒も飲んで税込み一人20,000円程度)
こと食べ物は…　という点に関して言うと、口が奢ってしまっているところもあって及第点というところだけどもね。恐ろしくレベルの高い及第点ではありますが、今となっては驚きがないですからねぇ。(笑)

和食というか割烹には幾つかの類型があるかとも思うが、ここ祇園丸山のような正統派（いや、数年前には新進気鋭だったんだと思うんですが、てい としては正統派という意味で。料理にしても老舗が新機軸を取り入れている昨今ですし）と、阪川のようなカウンターをメインとした亭主のパフォーマンスも楽しみの一つといった方向性とに好みが分化しているような気がするのだ。くずし懐石なんとか、とかね。（あまり好印象ではなかったので名前は適当にしておく）

取り立てて驚くこともないがごくごくオーソドックスにして良質なサービスを「面白みもない」と見向きもしないことは簡単だが、30代中盤にもなると逆にこういった外連味（けれんみ）のないサービスを提供されるのも大人として嗜めるようになってきた。

その点、たとえば「ます多」みたいな外連味たっぷりというか、カウンター越しに繰り出される料理のいちいちの剛速球っぷりに驚かされるのが楽しい、という方向性も好きなのだ。すごく。
中秋の頃に「鱧には間に合わなかったなぁ」などとつぶやくと「鱧？　ありますあります」とどこから出してきたのだか分からないうちに手早く骨切りしてくれてささっとしゃぶしゃぶ鍋を作ってくれたり、「銀座の近藤で食べた玉蜀黍の天ぷらが美味しかった」と言って見れば「やってみましょか？」と即座に絶品の天ぷらを作ってくれたり、とかとか。
一見さんに近い我々にも（といっても常連さんからの紹介なので違うのかもしれないが）こういった驚きの喜びを提供してくれるのは素晴らしいと思うのだが、いささか饒舌であり、最後に出てくる海鮮カレーを食べると「これは暴力温泉芸者ならぬ暴力料理芸者だなぁ」などといった感想もあるにはある。（無論特級の誉め言葉として、だ）

そんなことを感じながら小路を辿っていくと後ろではまだ深々とお辞儀をする亭主がいらっしゃった。
ご馳走様を言いながら手を振って角を曲がる。
しかし、もうちょっと爺になったら行きたい店は山ほどあるんだけどもなー。楽しみだったりして。

さてさて、食後にぶらぶらと四条通りを歩き、なんとなくフランソワに寄って見る。
むぅ、れとろごーじゃす。

投稿者 KQZ : 2004年10月04日 11:57 | [EDIT]

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