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2004年10月02日

京都一日目の午後は和食のちバー二軒

二時半頃に起き出してヨネさんと構内電話で今晩の相談。
ヨネさんは明日の夜に帰ってしまうので京都らしいものが食べたいのだという。
dancyuなどで活躍している美人カメラマン武井さんが教えてくれた鳥鍋屋さんなども候補に挙げるが、高嶋政伸さんの意見なども伺ってみる。

(写真アップ完了　04.10.19)

高嶋さんは時代劇をやると京都に三ヶ月くらい住むので色々知っているだろう。そこで得た「日本で一番うまいインド料理屋」とかいう情報も面白かったのだがあっさり却下。普段の言動から信用ならないっちゅうか。だが、「ぎおん阪川ってどう？」との意見にはなびいてみる。何年か前に予約が取れなかったまま行けず終いだったのだ。電話してみると早い回は一杯だそうだが、一回転したあとなら大丈夫だという。
19時半までそれぞれ自由行動ということで散開。
でもって、一力で遊んで育ったというこばんの話などしながら花見小路をぶらぶらしていたらあっさり19時半ちかくに。
阪川をさがしていたらなぁんだ祇園サンボアのすぐ近くなのね。祇園サンボアはドアが新しくなって中が見通せなくなっていた。ちょっと解放感が減ったというか閉塞感が感じられる気がするけど、6日までに一度くらいは行ってみるか。

などということがあったりなかったりしながらも花見小路の真ん中で集合して阪川にたどり着く。カウンターの真ん中の席に通される。
まずはお通し的に「とろろ汁」と「水菜と松茸の和え物」がくる。ビールで乾杯。鰹出しが濃厚でうまい。
「料理はどうされますか？　11,000・13,000・15,000・18,000とありますけど」と言われるが、僕らは明日飽きるほど松茸を食べるのでその旨を伝えると、松茸は15,000円以上のコースからつくのだという。ということで13,000円のコースに決定。

しかし今日気づいたのだが、今回の京都では『●●でよろしかったでしょうか？』という言い方が耳に付く。
ネットゲームのゲームマスターを育てている間に「なるべく使ってはいけない用語」にかなり上位にランクさせていた言葉なのだが、ことここ京都では一日に何度も聞いてしまうのだ。昼間にジュンク堂で本を買った時にもレジの女性に言われたし、阪川のおかみさんにも何度となく言われた。金時もやはり気になっていたようだ。
もちろん対面して言われているので全く嫌な感じなどはしないのだが、これはきっと方言なのだよなぁ。

「銀杏の饅頭の銀餡掛け」のほっこりとした口当たりとねっとりとした舌触りとはたまらん。油で揚げた香ばしさもいいしね。お造りのトロは値段にしてはかなりおごった大トロだった。白身はちょっと分厚すぎか。噛み切れないので中に隠し包丁を入れるとかしたほうがいいかも。
サワラの焼き物は普通に美味しい。ここらへんで既にコストパフォーマンスの良さを確認。
しかしお酒は…　なにがあるのか聞いたのだが「冷酒は？」と聞いたら凍結酒を勧められた。もちろん当たり前のように却下。京料理屋さんの定番の「ひがん」も勧められたが食中酒としてはあっさりし過ぎていると常々思っているのでこれまたスルー。結局一番出ているであろう三千盛をもらってみた。
が…。
とある理由でお燗にしてもらうことにした。普段のお燗は松竹梅の豪速球(?)とかいう酒らしいので三千盛をそのままお燗にすることに。しかし二本目のお燗からは素晴らしく美味しくなった。きっと残っていた酒が終わって封開けになったんだね。（いや、冷酒からお燗にしたのはこれが理由だったのだが）

そんなこんなしている間に出てきた料理の方はというと、「子持ち鮎の煮たん」が山椒のほんのりとした香りをいかして濃厚においしかった。味が幅ったい状態のお燗酒に対抗できるくらい。（←まだ言ってる）「河豚の皮と身のおろしポン酢和え」も歯ごたえの違う各部位がとても楽しい。
また、松茸の土瓶蒸しの代わりに出てきた「すっぽんの土瓶蒸し」がとても美味しかった。とろりと琥珀色をしたスッポンスープが口腔内に這いずるように行き渡る。そこにパワーアップしたお燗酒を三分の一ほど注ぐと濃いスープが中和されて日本酒の香りと相まって最高の状態となる。行儀が悪いのははなから承知だがやめられんですわ。
箸休め的に出た「イチジクの柚子味噌かけ」もお気に入り。柚子味噌がキチンと味噌の塩味をのこしていて決してデザートとして処理されていないのが次の料理へとつながるのだな。
その後に胃袋の空いている隙間を埋めるかのようにあっつあつの「鱧の柳川」がでてくる。これもまたよろしいよろしい。「京料理はあっさり薄味」というのが合言葉のようになっているが、ボクの知っている限り（塩味ではなく）味が濃くてこれでもかというくらいに粘着質にていねいにウマミのツボをついてくるのが京料理なのだと思う。紙幅がたらないからこれ以上は別稿で書くけど。（本当はもう眠いからなのだが）
締めはご飯とジャコ山椒にするかにゅうめんにするかの選択式。最後にデザートで満腹。

会計を済ましたところで他のお客さんがいなくなったので高嶋さんからのメッセージを伝える。
「あぁ、二階でトロを召し上がって美味しい美味しいと…」
って、そんなイメージしかないんかい。

その後、ヨネさんがauのオフィシャルサイトの取材用に「白川を眺めるようなバーってない？」というのでIt's GION Dewに行ってみる。去年も行ったアレだ。

ヨネさんが巨峰のカクテル、ボクがクォーターデッキを頼む。
一杯ずつで店から出てくる。春先に桜が綺麗な時にはいいかもねー。

その後ぶらぶらとあるいて、前に銀座タリスカにいた黒野くんが独立して開店したというバーに行って見ることに。
というか、今日のメインはこれなんだな。仲の良かったバーテンダーさんが独立したってんならどこにでも行きましょうともさ。
六角御幸通にできたという店は、案に相違して（スマン＞黒野くん）すんごく立派なお店だった。
その店の名前は『Ｋ家』
町屋を改造して作ったというＫ家は建坪が55坪プラス中庭が10坪。かなりの大店だ。

急な訪問にびっくりしていた黒野くんだが、やはりオーナーバーテンダーということで貫録がでてきた様子だ。
「Ｋ家の『Ｋ』は『京都』のＫなんです。…けど、自信がついてきたら『黒野のＫですよ』っていいたいですね」
なんて言ってたけど、十分黒野君のＫなんだと思う。
詳しくは明日かその後くらいにももう一回行くだろうからその時に書きますわ。
今日は取り合えず寝るーーーー。（こればっか）
飲んでいる途中に政伸さんから電話があって阪川の件のお礼を言っておいた。いや初日から満腹だわ。

ぎおん阪川
京都市東山区祇園町南側570-199
TEL: 075-532-2801

Ｋ家
中京区六角通り御幸町西入ル八百屋町103番地
TEL: 075-241-0489

投稿者 KQZ : 2004年10月02日 02:54 | [EDIT]

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僕も先日阪川にいってきました。ほんとおいしかったです。トロやかぶら蒸しなんかサイコーでした。ＴＢはらせてもらいますね！

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