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2004年09月20日

蔵元を囲む会に参加したのだった

（エントリーを上げた日程がちょっとズルイが大人はそんなことには頓着しない）
今年もやって来ました長谷川酒店の恒例「蔵元を囲む会」。
今回の場所はホテルオークラ平安の間。長谷川さん頑張りすぎです。
いつもの飲み仲間チームで13時からの完全ブラインド利き酒会からの参加です。
さてさて…

会場に着くといそのさわの高木さんや昨日も飲んでいた初亀の村上くん、松の司の石田くん、礒自慢の山田さんなどそこかしこに見知った方々が一様に飲み疲れた顔をしています。酒造業界の方は午前中に気合いの入った利き酒を既に終えているのです。
「いやー、厳しいっすよ。答え知っちゃってるんであんまりお話できませんけど…」
そうでしょうそうでしょう。
年に一度くらいはきっちりと酒の味を利かないといけませんし。

スーツ姿なんてこの会以外では見たことがない浅間の畠山くん、上智大学の土屋教授、名取、eyes…　といったいつもの面々で利き酒会場に入ると銀紙に包まれた312本の一升瓶がずらり並んでいます。壮観。
吟醸酒部門112点、純米吟醸酒部門200点からそれぞれ気に入った酒を10アイテムずつ選ぶ方式です。

そうそう。利き酒、および利き酒師というと、酒をひと舐めするやいなや「んー、山田錦、兵庫の特Ａ地区、それも東条だね。磨きは35…　いや、掛け米は40くらいかな…　酵母は14号系で、南部杜氏の癖がある…」などと嗅ぎ分けてしまうようなイメージを持たれる方もいるかもしれませんが、そんなのは人として存在しません。ありえないっつーか。（いや、この程度なら出来なくはないんですけどね…）
日本酒はワインなどと比べても技術レベルがめっっっっっちゃくちゃ高度なうえ、平均的レベルからしても世界の吟醸酒のレベルのはるか彼方高みを突っ走り過ぎてるくらい突っ走っちゃってるくらいなのでいくらでもごまかしが効くのです。（言い方悪いですが）
利き酒師試験の官能試験部門を簡単に言ってしまえば、お酒に対して銘柄を云々して当てたりするのではなく「この温度で、こういった料理と合わせると美味しく戴ける」といった事が言えれば大体受かるのですね。もちろん前提としてキチンと作られたお酒のイメージを持っていなければいけませんけれども。

ま、能書きはこれくらいにして、と。
いやもうちょっとだけ書くか。
普段はのほほんと食べ物との相性をとやかく言っているだけのボクですが、蔵元さんや杜氏さんと話をして合わせられる程度、ある程度相談にも乗れる程度にはお酒を利くことだって出来ます。以前某酒屋さんの営業部長から意地悪をされフレンチレストランで隠しメニューだった日本酒を出され銘柄までピタリと当てて驚かれたこともありますが、半分はお店のつきあいのある酒屋さんのラインナップとソムリエさんの味の好みから推測したのでソーシャルハッキングみたいなもんなんで威張れたものではありません。
まぁ何が言いたいかというと、楽しくお酒を飲むことと、気合いを入れて酒のアラを探す（完成度を確かめる、ともいう）のとでははっきりと違う、という事です。そして酒のアラを探すという飲み方は嫌いなので、いつもいいあんばいで飲んでいる、というわけです。

とは言っても今日は利き酒能力のチューニングの日です。
でもってボクが気合いを入れて酒を利く時にはこんな感じでやることにしています。

といった具合でしょうか。これを約5秒程度の間隔で続けていくというわけです。

しかし300種類の日本酒というのは果てしなく多い。
どこの蔵元さんも一生懸命作っているだけに一生懸命にもなります。提供される温度やここまで運搬されてきた経路までも想像して元のお酒の味を確かめるわけですから、50種類もやっていくと舌も頭もしびれてきます。長谷川社長や浅間の畠山くんなどのプロの人はやっぱリすごいってことです。炭濾過のグラム数やヤブタの調子の善し悪しまで分かるってんですから。
途中でグルメライターの西谷さんや友田晶子さんにもお会いしましたがみんな真剣で話し合う余裕もなし。
（ちなみにいわゆる「金賞」がどうのこうのという鑑評会での利き酒は減点法なので、このような元の酒の味を想像したりといった作業はしない筈です。あくまでも個人的な趣味なんで）
しかし毎回答え合わせをしてみて分かるんですが、誰でも普段から飲んでいて好きなお酒はキチンと聞き分けられているんですね。今回も南部美人や初亀、醸し人九平次、東一といったよく飲んでいる蔵の酒はぴんと来たしね。
ちなみにeyesさんも自分のblogで、


私が分かったのは、十四代がどれであるかが当たったぐらい・・・。
ああ、私が好きな味なんだなあと、納得もしたけれど。
（分かりやすい味ともいえるのかな。）

↑こんなこと言ってます。
疲れてしまうのは、いくら少ししか口に含まなくても、また利いたお酒を吐いたとしても、300種類もあれば2合くらいは吸収されているからですな。
（ちなみに個別エントリーになると写真が見えないのは設定ミスだと思われます＞eyesさん）

また、こういった会で楽しいのは、見ず知らずのお酒と先入観なく出会えるという点です。
今回はブラインドにもかかわらず吟醸酒部門と純米吟醸酒部門の両方で鷹来屋と喜正に同じようなコメントと点数をつけていました。きっと2004年時点でのボクの好みの味だということでしょう。
一昨年は竹林をこんな感じで気に入って見つけ今も愛飲していますから、今回は鷹来屋をはじめとする十数蔵のお酒を追っかけてみようかと思います。もっとも喜正は4〜5年前から素直なお酒で好きなんですけどねー。

そんなこんなで18時半になり、二次会というか本番というかパーティー部門である「蔵元を囲む会」のスタート。
今回は立食で約500人の善男善女が参加。会場の周囲に蔵元がお酒を持ちながらびっしり並んでいるのでどちらかというと蔵元に囲まれる会なのではありますが。
梅谷さんが麺屋武蔵の大将をと一緒にいたので「今年も獣肉一緒に食いに行きましょーねー」などと歓談。ちょうどそこに日経レストランの菅原さんがいらしたので紹介したりして。
某週刊誌のカラダのでっかい編集者が「今度別冊で日本酒の特集をやるのでノリのいい蔵元さんを紹介してくださいー」というので南部美人の久慈くん、東洋美人の澄川くん、赤野の尾木杜氏、明鏡止水の大澤さん、などなどをチェーン状態というか突撃隣の晩ご飯状態で紹介していく。
そのたんびにお酒を注いで貰うのだから何も食べないうちに3合位のんでしまった。危険。
食べ物を補給して元気を取り戻し、またも気になる蔵元さんのところに突撃。さらに3合ばかし摂取。ほろ酔い〜。
しかし浦霞の大吟醸原酒14BYはズル過ぎ。売ってない酒なんだものなぁ。久慈君も特殊な限定大吟醸斗瓶取り持ってきてるし。
久慈君と奥さんと太陽君はウチにまだ来てもらっていないので近々企画しなければだなぁ。
最後に恒例のお土産タイム。
今回は「中屋・大吟醸山田錦35％生」と「正雪・吟醸」と「あどはだり」（青森・中村亀吉）をゲット。

酔いざましに歩きながら帰宅。
酒を二升半もぶら下げて「升升半升たぁいい加減だね」ってなもんで。
うまくオチましたようで。 m(_ _)m

※このサゲのいみがわからないおともだちはおとうさんかおじいちゃんにきいてみよう！

投稿者 KQZ : 2004年09月20日 11:59 | [EDIT]

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