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2004年08月17日

つぶれた酒蔵についての王様の耳はロバの耳

とある酒蔵がつぶれたらしい。
女性が蔵を運営しているという事に加え、彼女が蔵に入るに至った経緯というのがドラマチックでもあり、それなりにメディアでも取り上げられていた蔵元だったのでこれを聞いてショックを受けた人も多いのかもしれない。
でもねぇ…

数年前、この女性の蔵元さんに大声で怒鳴りつけられたことがある。
（聞けば彼女のお母さんもそういう人らしいのだが、その時には知らなかったのでもんのすごくびっくりした）
とある「日本酒を楽しむ会」的なイベントに彼女がゲストの一人として呼ばれていたのだ。
100人を超えるお客さんが利き酒をしているところに一時間くらい遅れて彼女が登場。諸先輩の蔵元さんは既に法被を着てお客さん対応に忙しい。彼女のブースには蔵元さんがいないので、お酒を飲みたいお客さんに対しては近所の蔵の方が交代交代で対応してあげたり、それでも足りない場合には僕ら主催者にやや近い人間が吟醸と普通酒の違いといった当たり障りのないことを説明してみたりして。
ややあって、主催者と挨拶を終えた彼女が自分のブースに登場したんだが、んー、化粧臭いんだよねー。それはそれでいいんだけどもさ。
彼女とは面識が無いわけではなかったので挨拶などしていると、周囲で待ちわびていたお客さんたちが口々に蔵の新製品についてなど和やかに質問をし始めた。色々と取り上げられていたから有名人だったしね。
質問自体は別にごくごく普通の質問だった。たとえば「ラベルに記載されてないけど使用米はなんですか？」とか。そしたら彼女「新潟のお米です」と答えるのみ。
今度は僕も質問したくなり「新潟の米…　近頃は食米で作られることも多いですから、それですかね？」と聞いてみると「新潟は新潟です。そんなこと答えられません！」などと言い切られてしまいその近辺にいた人間は全員ﾎﾟｶｰﾝ。
見かねた隣の蔵元さんが「えーっと、○○は五百万石ですね、60％精米の」と関係者用パンフレットを裏返しながら助け舟を出してくれた。ということは秘密にしていたわけではないらしい。もしかしたら自分のところの製品の米を把握してないとか？　という疑惑が急浮上。まさか、そんなことはないだろうけど…
別のお客さん同士が「私大吟醸が好きなんですけど、どうしても生酒とかって苦手で…。ほらこのニオイとか」などと話をしている。興味があったので利き酒してみるとわっかりやすい生ひねが入ってしまっている。日本酒という酒のうち「生酒」というカテゴリーが全てそうだと思われるのも困るので「いや、生酒でも本当の絞りたてはもっと美味しいんですけど…。これだったら少しだけお燗して飲んでみたらどうでしょうか？」と蛇の目利き猪口のまま燗用のお湯にどぶ漬けして日なた燗程度にして飲ませてみるとこれは気に入った様子。生ひねは作った人というよりは会場にお酒を運搬した経路の問題なので仕方ないのでこれはこれでいいとして。

バイキングブースがオープンしてお酒のコーナーからお客さんが引けたあとに彼女と世間話をしていると、自分のところの蔵の酒に関しての感想を聞かれた。
正直に利き酒しながら「この△△ですけど、残念ながら生ひねが入っちゃいましたね。今度ちゃんと飲んでみますよ。こっちはちょっと甘めで…香りが立って…酵母は…アルプス系の香りもしましたけど…」などと話していると態度一変の大激怒。
曰く「私は忙しいのにココに来てあげているの。当然ギャラも無しなのよ。そんな文句ばっかりいう人とは話もしたくありません。大体失礼だと思いませんか？　米とか酵母の種類なんて関係ないじゃない。お酒は生きているんです。毎タンクごとに味が違うんです」　…云々かんぬん。
いや、あの、俺らはギャラとか以前にお客さんとしてお金を払って来てるわけで、今言ったことにしても文句というよりかは感想とか質問なんじゃないのかな…　それと後半貴女が言ったことめちゃくちゃだし…　とかとか言おうとも思ったが、あまりの剣幕になんだか気が抜けてしまって空いた口がふさがらなかったことを覚えている。ひょっとして賛美して欲しかったのに僕らが質問なんてしたからなのか…？
空気を読んだ主催者があわてて駆け寄ってきて僕らを引き剥がし双方に平謝り。
しかし、米や酵母の種類を聞きたがる人は多いと思うぞ。パンフレットには書いてあったみたいだしなぁ。感想を聞いておいてそれはないだろうに…　とかとか頭に渦巻いてたんだがとっさのことで空白になってしまっていた。

ともあれ、悪気は無かったのだがなにか態度などで癇に障ってしまったのだろうと思い、帰り際に一応謝ってみたのだが、逆に指を指されて「あなた方の無礼は一生忘れませんから！」などとわめかれてしまった。いや、この会場にいた関係者全員も忘れないだろうともよ、貴女のことは。
（この話の大半は四谷三丁目の某居酒屋の若旦那も一緒だったので興味がある人はそっちでも聞いてみるといいだろう。脚色は一切していないことが分かるはずだ）

そんなことがあって以来、編集者から彼女の蔵について何か書いてくれと言われても全て断ってきていた。僕はちょうちんライターではないし、別の仕事も色々やっていて大抵の編集者よりも収入もある。だから生活のために自分が納得しないものを書く必要もないしな。（これについては音楽ライターをやっているときも同じなのだが）　結果的に自分のライターとしての仕事を少なくしてしまったのかもしれないが、ちょうちん記事を書くよりはよっぽどましだ。
ただ一回だけ、日本酒業界に対して何かのイメージアップに、という観点で彼女が蔵に入るに至る話をコラム的に書いたことはある。が、一言も「美味しい」などといった味については書いたことはない。「途上中」「注目が集まっているだけに期待が…」とか書いてごまかしたんだっけかな。（笑）
とはいえ一般的に彼女の蔵については、自らを酔っ払いだとか規定している有名ちょうちんライターの手による大賛美記事が世の中には出回っているだろう。ちゃんと飲んで書いてるかどうかはしらんがね。（苦笑）　飲んでみて、それで語る、それが健全な（いや普通の）あり方だと思うのだが、自分の友達だからといってこの上も無く誉めちぎるというのはあまり見ていて美しいものではないと思う。

そして。
数ヶ月前、とある蔵元さんと話しているときに彼女の蔵の話になった。その蔵元さんは蔵同士がご近所で、先代先々代からの付き合いもあり後見人的な立場でもあるので、事あるごとに数年前のパーティーでのことを謝ってくれたりもするのだ。
ところがその時に聞いたのは、「○○の蔵だけど、どうやら今年は米を買ってないみたいなんだよ」というお話だった。その地域の蔵元さんはある程度共同でとあるところから酒米を買っているのだが（あー詳しくは書けないけど）、今年（の造り）はどうも米を買っていないようで、つまり今売っている酒はいわゆる『桶買い』というヤツだったのかもしれない、という事なのだ。もちろん全部共同購入しているって事ではないとしても。今回の残念な話を聞いてやはり根は深かったのだなぁ、と思いやるのみ。

趣味だからというか仕事柄からしてというか、沢山の酒蔵さんや杜氏さん、蔵人さんと話したり飲んだりしていると（取材もするが近頃飲んでばっか）、一人たりとも悪い人がいないのがとても心地よい。亡くなってしまったタケダワイナリーの若社長も飲み友達だったけど惚れ惚れするほど楽しくて熱い男だった。
確かにこの10年、全国で酒蔵がものすごい勢いでつぶれている。でも頑張って大きく伸びている蔵もたくさんある。みんな凄く真剣に自分の仕事のことを話してくれるし、飲み手の話も嬉々として聞いてくれる。
彼女の蔵はとても注目度が高いので、単に一軒の蔵がつぶれたというだけではなくてイメージ的にはもっと大きなものになってしまうのだろうとは思う。
でも、ダメなところは変に固執せずに退場して別のことをすればいいと思うのも事実。好きなことを誇りを持ってできないのであれば。家に縛られていやいやする仕事ではない。

まぁ長くなってしまったが、言わんとしたいことはただ一つ。お疲れ様でした、ってこった。

（このエントリーは潰れたと判った時に書いてたんだけどタイミングをはずしてアップしてみたりしてー）

投稿者 KQZ : 2004年08月17日 01:02 | [EDIT]

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コメント

私も若干聞いてはいるのですが、とりあえずそこの酒が
好きな方もいるようなので誰もが見れるところではオトナの
態度を取ってみたりして～。

投稿者 だくれ : 2004年08月17日 08:48

これでも書けないことは気を使ってたりもして～。
でもバレバレですかね？
でしたら更にわかりづらく書きなおすか削除の方向で。

四谷三丁目の某居酒屋の若大将と僕が罵倒されてショボンとしてしまったくらいお元気な方ですから、きっと逞しく生きていかれる事でしょう。
桶買いで復活も早期にできるでしょうしね。（毒）

投稿者 KQZ : 2004年08月17日 09:12

他人事ながらちょっとムカッと来てしまいました。
ステロタイプな「やな女」ですねえ

投稿者 shi3z : 2004年08月17日 10:08

　やっぱり化粧臭い女にロクなヤツはいねぇですな。
「うるせぇ、ババァ！　化粧臭ぇんだよ！」と怒鳴った某社社長の話を思い出したり。

投稿者 ひげいとう : 2004年08月17日 10:35

箱根で旅館やっていながら全く箱根のこと知らない女将がいるなあ。欧州カブレで殆ど日本にいないんだが「私地元のこと知らないのー」とあっけらかん。店は友人外国ＶＩＰと外国カブレの小金持ちで大繁盛。こんなケースもあるんだが・・・
「化粧臭いばばあ」はワインに通じてたりするの？

投稿者 ｓ : 2004年08月18日 01:54

いや、ばばあというには若いんすよねぇ。
とりたてて攻撃する意図は全くないのでこれ以上は言及はしませんが、お母さんもそれに輪をかけた攻撃的な方のようですから仕方ないのかもしれませんね。
（蔵見学に来た一般の人がちょっと順路を外れたら「あんたら全員出て行け！　二度と来るな！」と怒鳴り散らしたという逸話があったり）

それと、旅館という形態でしたらサービスホスピタリティさえよければいいんじゃないでしょうか。
もちろん周辺事情に詳しい方がプラスであるのは変わりませんが…
ただ、タクシーの運転手が地理を知らないのは困り者ですが、こと「旅館」であるのならば館内の居心地がよければまず第一義はクリアしているかと思います。

京都・奈良などの名所史跡めぐりの中継点としての宿であればコンシェルジュ的な機能はあってしかるべきだと思います。
例にある「箱根」っていうところからして、なんというかどんづまりというか「世事から離れてのんびりする」というコンセプトも考えられますし、そうなると逆に浮世離れしたポーズを取るというのもアリアリか？　なぁんて穿った見方をしてみたりして。
とはいえなんだかんだいっても客に嫌な気分を味あわせているってだけでマイナスですなぁ。

投稿者 KQZ : 2004年08月18日 04:55

なるほどね。黙って酒だけ作ってれば馬脚を現さずにすんだのに変に表に出たのがケチのつき始めだったかもね。

例の旅館の女将は俺が泊まりに行けば知り合いだから挨拶ぐらいは来るがあとはほったらかし。普段は重たい客にしか挨拶行かないので客と接触することはない。その分コンシェルジュは充実してる。スパなんかも箱根ではいち早く取り入れたし全て別棟の個室だ。要はほっといて欲しい客が主なわけだ。本人達は遊び人の夫婦だから自分がいつもサービス受けてる立場。
客の心が解ってコスト意識さえあれば経営者としては合格ということか。
ゴーンさんも車の細かいことは知らんだろうし、愛車のポルシェで事故ってたしね。

しかし例の社長のほうは米の配合知らないようじゃゴーンさんがマーチ何人乗りか知らないようなもんで次元が違いすぎだわな。

プロの知識を遥かに凌駕するアマが多いのが飲食の世界だし、最近は建築ブームとやらで建築やインテリア、工業デザインに詳しい素人も増えて建装屋も大変になってきた。
ネットの普及で口コミ情報の伝達スピードも速くなった。それだけプロに厳しい時代になったわけねん。

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