2004年08月03日

いきなり暇になってなかむらでお鮨

午後になっていきなり夜の予定が空いたので、小笠原さんと金時と鮨なかむらに行くことに。
店に入ってみると早い時間なのになにやら賑やか。篠山紀信さんのグループが楽しそうに食べていた。そういや前は毎週のようにラゴーラで見かけてたなぁ。

（写真をアップするのが遅れたので更新が逆ですがー）

まずビールをもらって喉を湿らせる。
定番の鮑をつつきつつ、まず東一・山田錦純米吟醸をいただく。
皿にちろりと乗せてある肝ソースを嘗めながら日本酒がすいすい。最後に皿をぬぐうように肉厚のあわびの身で肝ソースをねぶりつくす。東一は夏になり味に重みも乗ってきて酸味とのバランスがよい。特殊な煮方シリーズの煮蛸はほっこりと栗の香りすらただよう。
こりこりとしたアオリイカの耳、油の乗ったノドグロの焼き物などをつまみに飲んだ日本酒は醸し人九平次の山田錦純米、礒自慢の特別本醸造などなど。
握りにうつってからは十四代本丸をお燗でもらう。（↓全部じゃないけどこんな感じ）

二尾づけの小肌と大き目の小肌におぼろをかませたのが好対照でオツ。最後の干瓢巻きをお代わりまでして満腹。
その後、北白川さまから電話が入り赤坂で合流することに。いつものBambooに行くと小笠原さんが切込隊長と打ち合わせをしたいというので野球の観戦中のところを来てもらう。なんの番組をやるのやら…、ってのはまだわからんが。
コワントローとレモンジュースとを水割りにするとポカリスエットそっくりになるというのが面白くて美味しかった。こういう軽いのもいいやね。

で、次の日にさくまあきらさんと食事をした時に教えてもらったのだが、ここでとある評論家の人(?)が、なかむらについてすんごい悪口を書いているようなのだ。
で、じっくり読んでみる。
…んー。
ひどい。内容もひどいが少なくとも推敲くらいしたほうがいいと思う。
内容についても色々気になるところがあるのだが、特に日本酒に関しては「知らないんなら書かなきゃ恥かかずに済むのに…」と思ってしまうほど。
まーなんつーか、そんなに醤油で煮た鮑が食いたきゃ頼めば煮てくれるだろうに。トリ貝も「炙らずにもう一個くれる？」って頼んで食えばいいじゃんか。それでいて生の方が旨ければ文句を言えばいいし書けばいい。そうでないなら黙ってろってんだぃ。悪口を採取しにわざわざいって楽しいのかね、まったく。シャリに関してはいいときもあればあまり感心しないときもあるってのはわかるけどさ。
…と、まぁ色々と反論も言いたくもなってくるが、某SNSでつながっている知人がサイト内日記でこんなパロディを書いていたのが結構面白かったので勝手に抜粋。（一部伏字にしてます）

<<ここから>>

評論家とは思わないほうが無難、友里征耶
最近分別も分かっていない素人が偉そうに飲食店のレビューをするのが流行って
いるようですがこのサイトもそのひとつ。
邱永漢氏のサイトのすぐ直下で2つのキャッチで売り出しています。
曰く「自腹で辛口」「お勘定払うからには言わせてもらおう」。
単行本を二冊だしているという評者の特徴は
有名料理評論家への私怨ともいうべきところでしょうか。
過去の文章を読んでみると、有名料理評論家が仲よさそうにしているだけで
評価は格段に下がってしまうようです。

さて、「鮨なかむら」に関する文章を読んでみると
2日に分かれて掲載するという構成で紙幅には十二分の余裕があります。
驚いたことにこの評者、女性スタッフがカウンターに入っているだけで
「強烈な違和感」「普通の鮨屋ではありえない」
と、既に味に対する評論をシャットアウトしている様子です。
かなり年配な方なので頭が固いのでしょうが、単行本もだしている評論家として
これってありなのでしょうか。

自分が嫌いな有名料理評論家がとある店を気に入っているからといって
味も論ぜず「店のスポークスマン」呼ばわりをするとは陰謀論者と同根でありましょう。
ジャーナリストではなく一般の素人ですから期待する方が無理なのか。

カウンターの中をくさした文章も最高品質は言えないまま
サカナの話に突入しましたが、これまた期待はずれの連続です。
ボキャブラリーが力不足なのです。

なんでもかんでも「これってありなのでしょうか」「如何なものか」と
読者に投げかける文体で誤魔化すパフォーマンスはどうでしょうか。
自分の味覚・見識に自信がないのではと勘ぐってしまいます。
（以下略）

<<ここまで>>

しかしこの作者、ワイン系の友人に聞いてみるとどうもなにかの会で会ったことがある人らしいのだ。
タケダワイナリーで会ったのかな？　大澤さん経由？　宝印刷の野村さん？　棚ちゃん？（…と誰かに聞いてみたりして）
ま、友達にはなりたくないタイプだからいいんだけども。

さくまさんも「なんか悪口書くために行ってるとしか思えないんだよねー。てんぷら近藤なんて改装途中の仮店舗のときに行って『暗い』とか書いてるんだもん。愛がない人間の文章は読んでて嫌だよね」とのこと。
同感同感。

投稿者 KQZ : 2004年08月03日 11:59 | [EDIT]

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