2003年10月28日

火曜の昼は橋田壽賀子テイスト

（アタマの中で「渡る世間は鬼ばかり」のテーマソングを鳴らしつつ）
京都最後の食事は高台寺の「京とみ」に行ってみる。親方は料理人としては有名な人らしい。入ってすぐのカウンター十席程度と、奥がかなり広い様子だ。しかし待てよ。入ってすぐに百合の花の匂いがするのだが…。料理屋でこんなキツイ匂いのする花を飾るというのはちょっとなぁ。と、いやな予感もしたりして。
既にカウンターの手前左側に詰めておばあさんと息子らしきおっちゃんが二人で冷酒を傾けている。カウンターの中には若い男の子がなにやらしている。右奥に4人分位置皿が設えてあるのでそこに案内されるのかと思ったら左に詰めてくれだと。へ？　後から来る客があるにしても10人キツキツに座らせちゃ不味いだろうし、第一目の前の客のことを考えて無い処遇だなぁ。「こっちじゃないの？」と聞いてみても「はい、そちらに詰めていただけますか」ですと。よくわからん。まぁ若いから仕方ないのかそれとも一見の客にはこうした扱いなのか。すると飲んでいるおっちゃんも「ねぇ、こんなに詰められちゃ…」などと愚痴っている。しかしここからがすごかったわけでして。
まずはなにしろおっちゃんがしゃべりっぱなし。聞きたくなくても聞こえてしまうんだなぁ。おっちゃんは62歳で日光の土建屋でおばあちゃんは83歳で京都三日目でこの後タクシーで…　って、なんだか取材したみたいな感じで把握できてしまったわけだわさ。
お料理の方はというとまずは最初に生麩、銀杏、穴子、海老の揚物、ウドの黄身酢和え、青菜の胡麻和えが登場。飾り付けも綺麗だし正統派の京料理であるわけです。
冷酒を戴きつつ…　おっちゃんの自慢話がうるさいのだ。曰く「俺は京都のいろんな名店に行きつけだ」とか、若い衆に「君はフグの免許は持ってるのか？」だとかどーでもいいことばかり。親方さんが登場するとさらにヒートアップ。昨日どこそこの店に行ったんだが、京都は薄味だねぇ。醤油くれっていったらくれるの？　いえ、せっかく京都にいらっしゃったんですから一口目はこちらのお味で味わっていただきたいので…　と至極全うなお返事。「京都は共産党が強いんだって？」「いえ私は料理しかわかりません…」でかい声ではしゃぎながらしゃべるなよ田舎もんが。つか、そんな使い古された話してどーすんだべさおっちゃんよ。と店全体の空気は一致している。自然、親方もおっちゃんの話は聞き流す体制になりつつある。
続いて料理はというと土瓶蒸し。毎日松茸食べてるなぁ。ハモの骨切りは櫻川と違って完璧だった。さすがに定評通りですな。身が薄いのはしょうがないとして葛も蒔きすぎではないし。お出汁は薄味ながら昼間なりのさらりとした味わい。隣のおっちゃんの無駄口がなければ問題はない。
入り口に客の声が。「5人で予約の山田ですけども…」「あぁ、1時から予約されている山田さん。あいにくまだ席ができていないので」時はまだ12時15分くらい。いくら何でも早すぎだい。となりのおっちゃんが若い衆に「次、○○寺に1時半には行かなきゃいけないんで、12時35分にはでなきゃいけないんだ。タクシー呼んでおいてくれる？　料理もそれに合わせて急ぎで」と手慣れたそぶりのことをいう。
次はお造り。赤身と平目。特に平目がよかった。縁側もよい。変に昆布で締めたりせずすんなりと戴ける。ただ、切ってからしばらく冷蔵庫に入れてあったので乾き気味だったのが難点。
しかしなんだかバタバタとうるさい店だ。続いて玄関先に「あのぉ、ご主人様は…」と女の声がする。呼ばれて出ていく奥さんだかの履物が一人だけ木なのでカツカツカツとタイルの床にやらたにうるさく響く。ややあって親方がでていくと「すみません、これを受け取っていただけますか…」「いや、困るんですよ」「いえ、ご主人さんそんなこと言わずに」「ウチはおたくとは付き合いませんから」「そんなこと言わずにぃ」「忙しいんだ、帰ってください」「ご主人様ぁ…」と橋田壽賀子テイストな押し問答が続く。どうやら食材を持ってきて押し売りをしているらしい。にべもなく突き返された女が帰る間際に玄関を見やると、その押し売りおばさんと目が合ってしまった。50絡み、小豆色のニットブラウスを着て小振りの紙袋を下げている。あの大きさでシノギになる値段というと松茸あたりかな。今にも泣きそうな憮然とした表情は寝不足のケイウンスクといったところか。となりのおっちゃんはわざとらしく苦笑している。お前も橋田壽賀子の埒のうちなんだってーの。つかお前こそが、だ。
お凌ぎは湯葉の御強がでてくる。ご飯の上に湯葉と三つ葉が乗っているだけだったので一瞬分からずに「これはなんの御強ですか？」と聞くと、親方がフタを開けてしげしげと見て…　無言になる。奥に向かって「おい、今日はなんの御強だ？」って、おい、お前が把握してないってどういうことよ親方さんよ！　味は薄味で湯葉の甘さとやわらかさが御強の引き締まった口当たりと引き立ってなかなか美味しい。上にかかった薄口醤油のお出汁がかつお味がもう少し強ければ関東人の味覚には満点か。イリコ出汁の方がいいかな。
またも玄関に人の声が。「あのぉ、5人で予約した山田ですけど…」おい、あれから10分しかたってないぞ。一通りやりとりがありながらもどこかにどっきりカメラがないものか疑心暗鬼になってくる。小笠原さんが一日目で帰ったところが怪しいといえば怪しい。右の方にカップルが入ってきたが、そちらでも女の尻に敷かれた男が一悶着を起こしていたらしいがよくわからん。
続いて松茸とむつの焼き物。親方もおっちゃんと話をしたくないからか我々と話をしはじめる。今年は松茸が本当によくないらしい。「今朝ウチに来た松茸ですけどね、今日はこの一箱っきりですわ。丹波の松茸はね」と大降りの松茸の箱を見せてくれる。石突きの処理の仕方なども教えてくれる。ま、しってるけど一応感心してみたり。「見せるだけですよ」「いえ、香りは戴きましたから」「そんなら香りの分お代を」「じゃお金も見せるだけ」「落語ですがな」と我ながら絵に描いたようなそつのないカウンターを挟んだ会話が続く。なんか台本でも書いてあったんかい、オレ？
するとその間静かだったおっちゃん（62歳日光出身バカ）がでかい声で若い衆に声をかける。「君の板前服の胸には『高台寺』とあるけど、君はお寺の子か？」「は？」「だから、親方の胸には『京とみ』と書いてあるけど、君の胸には『高台寺』としか書いてないだろ？　だから聞いてるんだよ」「あのぉ…。『高台寺　京とみ』って両方２行になって書いてあるんですけど…」
倒・れ・そ・う・な・ん・で・す・け・れ・ど・も。
途端に機嫌が悪くなるおっちゃん。「なんだ、しわになって見えなかったよ」んなことどーでもいーってーの。
そろそろおっちゃんの方のコースが終わったらしい。親方さんに「あのさ、タクシーで○○寺までってさ、何分くらいかかるかな？」「いえ、そういうことはタクシー会社に聞かれたほうがよいかと…」「え？　何分くらいかって聞いてるんだよ。○○寺って行ったことないの？」「いえ、ですから交通のことは季節とかもありますし、タクシー会社に聞いたほうが…」「なんだとぉ、オレは、何分くらいかって聞いてるんだよ。30分くらいでしょうかねぇ、とか答えりゃいいだろうに、なんだその口の聞き方は。だいたいだな、この店は若い奴が料理持ってくるときにも『なになにでございます』とか説明もしやがらない。どうなってんだこの店は。こんな店な、東京じゃ通用しないんだよ。な、ばあちゃん、そうだよな。帰ろう。お勘定。……」
もうなにがなんだか。ここは岡倉ですか？　次はえなりかずきが「オレ、やっぱり高校行かないで店継ぐよ」とかいいながら入ってきますか？　京都に来てまで橋田壽賀子の存在をこれほど強く感じたことはない。
お勘定の時にも「オレは教育してやったんだから…」とか値切っていたようだが、足音のうるさいおかみさんはめげなかったようで関係ないけど一安心している自分に気づく。
続いて鴨と大根の味噌煮。京味噌ですな。美味しかったけど印象はあまりない。あまりに面白いことが起こり過ぎて。（笑）　だってもう一回「5名で予約の山田さん」が登場したり、奥のお客さん用のお造りの白身魚を切っている親方が切り身を「にのしのろ。にのしのろ」と何度も勘定しているのがめっちゃおかしかったりしたし。
最後は焼きおにぎりのお茶漬け。これはちょっと味が薄すぎですね、関東人には。デザートには黒蜜のシャーベットが登場。

これだけのコースで4,800円とは総合的に見て驚くべき高コストパフォーマンスのなのですな。おっちゃんや押し売りおばさん、5名で予約の山田さんといった店の所為でない要因を除けば、百合の花とおかみさんの突っかけの音とコースの内容を把握していない親方と寝ぼけた若い衆くらいですな。気になったのは。

その後、八坂神社を散策してからタクシーに乗り、新幹線のぞみで帰ってきたわけだわさ。

投稿者 KQZ : 2003年10月28日 03:29 | [EDIT]

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KQZ on authentic

備忘録〜いまだ移行中〜

2003年10月28日

火曜の昼は橋田壽賀子テイスト

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KQZ on authentic

備忘録 〜いまだ移行中〜

2003年10月28日

火曜の昼は橋田壽賀子テイスト

トラックバック

コメント

備忘録〜いまだ移行中〜