2003年10月27日

京都二日目の晩御飯はお値打ち京料理に

予約してあった祇園の吉膳に。さくまあきらさん一行はます多に行っているらしい。我らだけならます多もいいなぁ、と思ったんだけどさすがに北白川と名取を誘うにはちょっと高いかと思いこちらに。祇園の遊び場街のビルの中にあるカウンターだけ６～7人のこじんまりとした清潔なお店。御夫妻だけでやっているようだ。
直にもう二人やってきて満杯になった。ははーん、予約の時に「7時半にお願いします」と言われたのは恐らく同じ時間にスタートしてもらいたいからなのだな。
突き出しはゴリの煮物、梨のオロシとナメコと菊花の和え物、揚げ銀杏。梨のオロシは面白かった。もう一発目でいい感じっす。しんなりとした梨の甘味がいい。意外さと美味しさですな。ゴリもつまみって感じでよいでげす。銀杏はほっこり大粒でビールにあいますです。
続いて鮑の肝の卵蒸しポン酢掛け。茶わん蒸しみたいなものですか。しかしオロシポン酢でなくてもいいのではないかなぁ、とも思ったり。しかし肝の濃い海の香りが苦甘くなるのでいいとも思えるが…
ささっと続いて、鰤の土佐酢漬けの焼き物がホンの一口だけ。焼き方も香りもいいけど土佐酢ねぇ。照りが良くなるのは分かるっす。しかしここまでお酢が全部に入っているのがちょっと気になったりして。
続くお椀はというと栗の擂り流しに鮑と蒟蒻とシメジ、そして吸口に辛子を少々。鮑と蒟蒻はいったん油で揚げて味がしみ込みやすく一工夫してある。シャクシャクと歯触りもいい。これは美味しい。しかし和辛子といえばやはり酢の香りなわけで。
魚は鯛の昆布締めオクラ酢ソース和え。やはりここでも酢だ。美味しいんだけど気が抜けないような。いや美味しいんだけどもね。鯛の香りといってもこの季節はさほどでもないから味の乗りが良いほうがいいのかしらん。変なところに気になる自分もやんなるところではあるが。
でお次は松茸の炭焼き。ほほーん、一人に一つずつ七輪が出てくるんだ。備長炭がカンカンに熾きている。軽く塩で味がついているとかで、そのままカボスにつけて頂ける。なるほどお仕事が上手ですわ。昨日のワイルドな松茸どもとは打って変わって大人し目の「料理」といったたたずまいのもんでげした。
御しのぎは御強を軽く干し飯にしたものを甘鯛でお茶漬けにして。おお、米粒の口当たりがとってもいい。たとえるならハリハリのリゾットのようなというか。三つ葉と胡麻も香りよろし。
揚物には小芋、キャベツ、ブロッコリをミルフィーユっぽく重ねた揚げ出し。こってりまったりとして素直に美味しい。
最後に穴子と長いもと芋茎の朧蒸し。こちらの吸口は生姜。あったまる。葛餡が旨いやね。
締めはご飯と香の物。
デザートはラフランスと黒みつの寒天を凍らしたもの。これはちょっと工夫が欲しかったかしらん。市松模様なのは可愛いんだけんども。
しかしここまでで一人11,000円とはコストパフォーマンスが良過ぎる。少ない客席を上手に回し、さほどえばりの良くない食材でも丁寧に使っていて非常に好感度が高い。名取は来年から月イチで京都出張があるとのことで早速そこら辺のお話を。「あら、お兄さんは京都にいらしたの」「ええ、といっても幼稚園の頃までですが父が同志社相撲部で。親戚がこっちに多いもんで今日は本願寺に墓参りしてきました」「で、そちらのお兄さんは沖縄出身の方？　ＴＶで歌ってる方じゃ…ホラ帽子かぶって」おい、黙って聞いてりゃ俺の話かい。そりゃビギンの比嘉君にはよく間違えられるけどさ。本人とも確認したけどもさ。石垣島の比嘉君の親戚にも間違えられたけどもさ。

吉膳
祇園花見小路富永町西入ル北側（075-541-6441）

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KQZ on authentic

備忘録 〜いまだ移行中〜

2003年10月27日

京都二日目の晩御飯はお値打ち京料理に

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コメント

備忘録〜いまだ移行中〜